Northumbrian Climbing Guide

 
 
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Dovehole What the symbols
& colours mean
Grid Ref: NT967368   Aspect: S   Routes: 5   Max Length: 8   Average Length: 7Warning Ask for permission 
Altitude: 0 mtrs   Walk in: 4 mins   Bouldering quality: ** 
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Turn off the A697 Wooler-Coldstream road just as you enter Millfield and continue along the unclassified road to Kimmerston. Take the second left and the crag soon comes into view. Turn right onto a No Through Road (to Fordwood House). Go to the farm to ask permission .Access is also possible from Goatscrag by following the bridleway west to Fordwood House, an easy bike ride.
 
General:
An attractively situated collection of boulders and towers of Fell Sandstone on a south facing hillside near Kimmerston. The rock has a reputation for being soft, but it is sound, the landings are good and the climbing is excellent. The bouldering guide describes 49 problems from UK 4b to 6a. These problems seem to have defied conventional wisdom and do not seem to be wearing out - if anything the condition of the rock is improving.
Rock:  
Fell Sandstone Carboniferous, Dinantian
Soft, but improving with use.
Access issues:
Ask at farm
Routes/Bouldering:  

No recorded routes.

Problems:
Up to date topos are available at the excellent Millfield Cafe in Millfield.
History:
The first recorded activity was by Tim Gallagher, Simon Berry and Dave Barrell during 1990 and 1991 with no known previous development having taken place. Since that time the bouldering has been further developed with efforts from Colin Miln and Isla Watson and the guidebook team of Tim Catterall and Steve and Tina Nagy