Dovehole

Approach

Turn off the A697 Wooler-Coldstream road just as you enter Millfield and continue along the unclassified road to Kimmerston. Take the second left and the crag soon comes into view. Turn right onto a No Through Road (to Fordwood House). Go to the farm to ask permission .Access is also possible from Goatscrag by following the bridleway west to Fordwood House, an easy bike ride.

Routes

Main Buttress
The best climbing is on the west wall of the largest block. The routes are described from left to right.
1  Chicken Drumstick Legs 7m HVS 5a 
The left ar? is followed on the right side, moving round left to finish.
2  Granddad Slap 8m E3 6a 
The classic of the main buttress. Move right from the ar? to gain a flake crack. Follow this direct past pockets to gain flutes above. Finish up these.
3  The ?D.B.? 8m E1 5a 
Start on the left hand side of the ledge. Pass overhangs on the left to gain runnels. Follow these to the top.
4  Legal Loophole 8m E1 5b 
Gain the hole direct from the ledge to gain the obvious runnel. Step right and up to a break then up the wall above.
5  Too Hard for a Couch 8m E2 5b 
From the middle of the ledge gain good holds above the overhang. Use these to gain the flake crack. Finish up this moving right to a ledge and the top.
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