Northumbrian Climbing Guide

 
 
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Paddaburn What the symbols
& colours mean
Grid Ref: NY650788   Aspect: S   Routes: 42   Max Length: 9   Average Length: 5 
Altitude: 365 mtrs   Walk in: 45 mins   Route quality: *   Bouldering quality: poor 
 
18
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The crag is approached from Gilsland (2 kilometres from Greenhead on the A69). Follow the Spadeadam road north for 2 kilometres to Moscow Farm and turn right onto a good but narrow road. Follow this road through forests and across open moorland for 10 kilometres passing through a gate and a shallow ford at Butterbum. The tarmac ends at a wooden bridge about 700 metres before Chumsike Lodge. It is possible to obtain permission from the Forestry Commission to continue by car almost to the foot of the crag. Those without permission can park between the bridge and the forest gate. Walk through the gate and follow the road round to the left to reach Churnsike Lodge. Take the left fork here and continue past a ruined barn on the left to reach a second junction. Turn right and continue for a further 1.2 kilometres ignoring a junction on the right after 1 kilometre to reach a dip in the road over a stream. The crag is just visible on the right through the trees and is reached by following the stream. From Chumsike Lodge allow 5-6 minutes from the picnic area by following the red and orange waymarked tracks.
 
General:
This is the most westerly crag in the guide and one of the most remote. However, it is formed of excellent quality sandstone, dries quickly after rain, has a superb situation, and is particularly recommended to those who seek to escape the madding crowd, although the lack of traffic does result in many of the holds being somewhat lichenous.
Rock:  
Fell Sandstone Carboniferous, Dinantian
A bit friable and lichenous
Access issues:
It is possible to obtain permission from the Forestry Commission at Bellingham (tel. 01434 220242) to continue by car almost to the foot of the crag.
History:
The crag was discovered by John Earl, Bob Hutchinson and Tim Edmundson in 1973, Padda Wall, Churnsike Crack and the difficult Sike Wall all dating from this time. A further nine routes were added by Dave Bowen and Stewart Wilson in 1978. beginning the tradition of wild west names. Finally, a few more routes, the most noteworthy being Almighty Voice, were literally unearthed by the author during the production of this guide.