The Quarry |
The large bay, obviously quarried. It is the highest section of the crag. |
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Good unprotected climbing up the left hand side of the overhung ar? on the east side of the quarry (left of Quaker). Start below the ar? and climb to a ledge. From the ledge step left round the ar? and commit to hard initial moves. Higher up the climbing eases. |
Simon Litchfield (29 September2009) |
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Delicate climbing up the right side of the ar?. Start as for Ambulance on Standby. From the ledge ascend the right side of the ar?, with surprisingly delicate moves at towards the top. |
Simon Litchfield (20 September2009) |
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Make a difficult move on the slab and surmount the overhang. Finish up either the wall or the crack. |
Steve Nagy, John Dalrymple (Summer 2001) |
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The crack to the right of Thompsons Rib. A poor route |
Steve Madgewick, Steve Nagy (Summer 2001) |
White Walls |
The next buttress has a quarried section and the rock is very suspect. |
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A devious route that encompasses the finest climbing on the right hand buttress with some technical bouldery moves. To the right of the broken crack on the left of the buttress is rib with a shallow scoop to its left. Technical moves gain the rib. Two shotmarks are useful for gaining the middle break. Traverse the break right for 1m. Use the remains of a broken flake to reach a number of crimps up and left. Gain the top, keeping a cool head a fair distance above the gear. |
Simon Litchfield (21 May 2011) |
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The true direct start to the upper half of Legal Aid that starts 1m left of Guilty. A fair route, but the start of Legal Aid has the better start. |
Simon Litchfield (21 May 2011) |
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Start as for Legal Aid but finish
directly up (and is spoiled by) the rubble above the
middle break. |
Simon Litchfield (21 May 2011) |
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The crackline on the right of the quarried section has doubtful rock and dubious protection |
Steve Nagy (Summer 2001) |