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Great Dour
The climbs are described from left to right and lie on the right hand side of the quarried bay in the centre of the crag.
Left of centre of the buttress there is a chimney, the first climb starts on the relatively clean buttress left of this, with a thin crack in it's upper part.
1 Rob Roy 13m VS 5a
Climb the chimney-wall to the flake and layback this to the thin crack which is climbed to an awkward finish. Rob Roy - Direct Start 5b
Climb the fine arete and wall directly beneath the thin crack to join it at its foot. 2 Great Dour Chimney 12m VD
Climb the chimney on the left and exit through the cave at the back taking care with loose blocks. Gordon Thompson (1960ish)
Chimney - Direct Finish 5b
The overhang is climbed direct and though safe, is awkward, strenuous and dirty. 3 Chimney Variant 10m MVS 4c
Climb Great Dour Chimney for 7 metres then exit along an obvious ledge on its right wall. Move round the arete into a groove and climb this moving right to finish. 4 Culloden 15m E1 5c **
Climb the rather messy initial overhang of the central corner and continue up the groove to a good resting place beneath the roof. Surmount the roof and continue up the magnificent wide crack above. John Earl, Bob Hutchinson (1970ish)
5 The Bagpipes 15m S *
Surmount the overhang and continue up the corner direct. Gordon Thompson (1960ish)
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© 2003 The Northumbrian Mountaineering Club | Editing and website contact: John Dalrymple |