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Dovehole Main Buttress
The best climbing is on the west wall of the largest block. The routes are described from left to right.
1 Chicken Drumstick Legs 7m HVS 5a
The left ar? is followed on the right side, moving round left to finish. Tim Gallagher, Simon Berry, Dave Barrell (1990ish)
2 Granddad Slap 8m E3 6a
The classic of the main buttress. Move right from the ar? to gain a flake crack. Follow this direct past pockets to gain flutes above. Finish up these. Tim Gallagher, Simon Berry, Dave Barrell (1990ish)
3 The ?D.B.? 8m E1 5a
Start on the left hand side of the ledge. Pass overhangs on the left to gain runnels. Follow these to the top. Tim Gallagher, Simon Berry, Dave Barrell (1990ish)
4 Legal Loophole 8m E1 5b
Gain the hole direct from the ledge to gain the obvious runnel. Step right and up to a break then up the wall above. Tim Gallagher, Simon Berry, Dave Barrell (1990ish)
5 Too Hard for a Couch 8m E2 5b
From the middle of the ledge gain good holds above the overhang. Use these to gain the flake crack. Finish up this moving right to a ledge and the top. Tim Gallagher, Simon Berry, Dave Barrell (1990ish)
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