Northumbrian Climbing Guide

 
 
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Cullernose History
The earliest known development of the crag is attributed to Peter Biven while he was stationed at RAF Boulmer in 1954.1955. During this period he and his climbing partner Bob Ower put up a dozen routes, a number of which were climbed wearing tricounis. Unfortunately the route descriptions were never recorded. It was in the late sixties, with the increasing popularity of climbing in the county, that Cullernose began to receive more attention. Dave Roberts, Eric Rayson, Frank Montgomery and Malcolm Rowe were mainly responsible for climbing, grading and naming the routes that were included in the NMC 1971 guide. Alan Austin also visited the crag and was credited with Ochre Wall. Frank Montgomery gave his name to Franks Rib while Maclolm Rowe's new route Zero G. showed the crag's potential for harder lines. It was not until 1976 that this was borne out when Bob Hutchinson and John Earl climbed The Deep and later in 1978 Nerve Wrack Point and Jonathan Livingston Seagull in time for the 1979 NMC guide. Again there was a lapse of several years before the next significant development. In February 1985 the team of Bob Smith, John Earl, Andy Moss and Ian Kyle produced a number of hard routes, the most notable being Puffin and Pantin, Siren Atlantis and Edna.

First Ascent List

1971ishTradZero G, E3 5bMalcolm Rowe
1971ishTradOchre Wall, HVS 5aAllan Austin
1971ishTradFrank's Rib, VS 5aFrank Montgmery
1976TradThe Deep, E3 5cBob Hutchinson, John Earl
1976TradJonathan Livingstone Seagull, E3 5cBob Hutchinson, John Earl
1978TradNerve Wrack Point, E2 5bBob Hutchinson, John Earl
1979ishTradOrnithologist, HVS 5aBob Smith
1979ishTradChasing the Tide, E2 5bBob Smith
February 1985TradSiren Atlantis, E5 6aBob Smith, John Earl
 With Ian Kyle & Andy Moss
February 1985TradEdna, E4 6aBob Smith, John Earl
 With Ian Kyle & Andy Moss
February 1985TradPuffin and Pantin, E4 5cBob Smith, John Earl
 With Ian Kyle & Andy Moss