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Injuries in [[rock climbing]] may occur due to falls, or due to overuse (see [[Sports injury]]). Injuries due to falls are relatively uncommon; the vast majority of injuries result from overuse, most often occurring in the fingers, elbows, and shoulders.<ref>{{cite book |title=Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing |last=Hörst |first=Eric J. |authorlink=|year=2003 |publisher=Falcon Publishing |location=Guilford, Connecticut, Helena, Montana |isbn=0-7627-2313-0 |page=151 |url=http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/ |accessdate=}}</ref> Such injuries are often no worse than torn [[callus]]es, cuts, burns and bruises. However, overuse symptoms, if ignored, may lead to permanent damage (esp. to [[tendon]]s, [[tendon sheath]]s, [[ligament]]s, and [[joint capsule]]s).
==Risk groups==
The climbers most prone to injuries are intermediate to expert within lead climbing or bouldering.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.climbing.com.au/Who%20gets%20injured%20in%20the%20gym.pdf |title=Indoor rock climbing: who gets injured? |last1=Wright |first1=D. M. |last2=Royle |first2=T. J. |last3=Marshall |first3=T |year=2001 |publisher=Br J Sports Med |accessdate=11 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110218231323/http://www.climbing.com.au/Who%20gets%20injured%20in%20the%20gym.pdf |archive-date=18 February 2011 |url-status=dead }}</ref>
==Overuse injuries in climbing==
In terms of overuse injuries a British study found that:<ref>{{cite book |title=The Science of Rock Climbing and Mountaineering |type=A collection of scientific articles |chapter=Injuries and associated training and performance characteristics in recreational rock climbers |last1=article by: Doran |first1=D. A. |last2= Reay |first2=M. |date=2000 |isbn=0-7360-3106-5 |publisher= Human Kinetics Publishing}}</ref>
* 40% occurred in the fingers
* 16% in the shoulders
* 12% in the elbows
* 5% in the knees
* 5% in the back
* 4% in the wrists
One injury that tend to be very common among climbers is [[Carpal tunnel syndrome]]. It is found in about 25% of climbers.<ref name=preston>{{cite web |url=http://www.hughston.com/hha/a.climb.htm |title=Rock Climbing Reaching New Heights |last1=Preston |first1=Dayton |date= |publisher=Hughston health alert|accessdate=11 January 2011}}</ref>
=== Finger injuries ===
604 injured rock climbers were prospectively evaluated from January 1998 to December 2001, due to the rapid growth of new complex finger trauma in the mid-1980s. Of the most frequent injuries, three out of four were related to the fingers: pulley injuries accounted for 20%, tendovaginitis for 7%, and joint capsular damage for 6.1%.<ref>{{cite journal |pmid=12825883 |title=Pulley injuries in rock climbers |last1=Schöffl |first1=V. |last2=Hochholzer |first2=T. |last3=Winkelmann |first3=H.P. |last4=Strecker |first4=W. |date=Summer 2003 |publisher=Wilderness & environmental medicine |volume=14 |issue=2 |journal=Wilderness Environ Med |pages=94–100 |doi=10.1580/1080-6032(2003)014[0094:piirc]2.0.co;2|doi-access=free }}</ref>
==== Pulleys ====
Damage to the [[flexor tendon pulley]]s that encircle and support the tendons that cross the finger joints is the most common finger injury within the sport (see [[climber's finger]]).<ref name=preston />
The main culprit for pulley related injuries is the common crimp grip, especially in the closed position. The crimp grip requires a near ninety-degree flexion of the middle finger joint, which produces a tremendous force load on the A2 pulley. Injuries to the A2 pulley can range from microscopic to partial tears and, in the worst case, complete ruptures. Some climbers report hearing a pop, which might be a sign of a significant tear or complete rupture, during an extremely heavy move (e.g. tiny crimp, one- or two-finger pocket). Small partial tears, or inflammation can occur over the course of several sessions.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nicros.com/archive/A2_pulley_injury.cfm |title=Finger Tendon Pulley Injury |last1=Hörst |first1=Eric J |year=2008 |publisher=Nicros |accessdate=11 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090316074336/http://www.nicros.com/archive/A2_pulley_injury.cfm |archive-date=16 March 2009 |url-status=dead }}</ref>
* '''Grade I''' – Sprain of the finger ligaments (collateral ligaments), pain locally at the pulley, pain when squeezing or climbing.
* '''Grade II''' – Partial rupture of the pulley tendon. Pain locally at the pulley, pain when squeezing or climbing, possible pain while extending your finger.
* '''Grade III''' – Complete rupture of the pulley, causing bowstringing of the tendon. Symptoms can include: Pain locally at the pulley (usually sharp), may feel/hear a 'pop' or 'crack', swelling and possible bruising, pain when squeezing or climbing, pain when extending your finger, pain with resisted flexion of the finger.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://climbinginjuries.com/page/fingers |title=DIAGNOSIS: Pulleys |last1=Roseborrough |first1=Aimee |last2=Roseborrough |first2=Kyle |year=2009 |publisher= |accessdate=11 January 2011}}</ref>
==== Knuckle ====
*Stress fractures
*Collateral ligament injuries
=== Shoulder injuries ===
Shoulder related injuries include [[rotator cuff]] tear, strain or [[tendinitis]], biceps tendinitis and [[Slap lesion|SLAP lesion]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://climbinginjuries.com/page/shoulders |title=Climbing Injuries: Shoulders |last1=Roseborrough |first1=Aimee |last2=Roseborrough |first2=Kyle |year=2009 |publisher= |accessdate=11 January 2011}}</ref>
=== Elbow injuries ===
[[Tennis elbow]] (Lateral Epicondylitis) is a common elbow injury among climbers, as is [[Golfer's elbow]] (Medial Epicondylitis, which is similar, but occurs on the inside of the elbow).
===Calluses, dry skin===
Climbers often develop calluses on their fingers from regular contact with the rock and the rope. When calluses split open they expose a raw layer of skin that can be very painful. This type of injury is commonly referred to as a flapper.
The use of [[magnesium carbonate]] (chalk) for better grip dries out the skin and can often lead to cracked and damaged hands <ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.kletterretter.com/en/about-us/ |title=Hand cream for rock climbers |website=Kletter Retter |accessdate=5 February 2015 |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20150206023238/http://www.kletterretter.com/en/about-us/ |archivedate=February 6, 2015 }}</ref>
There are a number of skincare products available for climbers that help to treat calluses, moisturise dry hands and reduce recovery time.
==Young/adolescent climbers==
"Any finger injury that is sustained by a young adolescent (12–16) should be seen by a physician and have x-rays performed. These skeletally immature athletes are very susceptible to developing debilitating joint arthritis later in adulthood."<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.athleticadvisor.com/injuries/ue/finger/finger_injuries.htm |title=Finger Injuries |last1=Edell |first1=David |date=24 October 2009 |publisher= |accessdate=11 January 2011}}</ref>
==See also==
* Related topics
**[[Carpal tunnel syndrome]]
**[[Climber's finger]]
**[[Golfer's elbow]]
**[[Repetitive strain injury]]
**[[Radial tunnel syndrome]]
**[[Tennis elbow]]
* Lists and glossaries
** [[List of climbing topics]]
** [[Climbing terminology]]
** [[Climbing command]]
== References ==
{{Reflist}}
[[Category:Climbing]]
[[Category:Rock climbing]]
[[Category:Overuse injuries]]
[[Category:Sports medicine]]
[[Category:Inflammations]]
[[Category:Soft tissue disorders]]
==Risk groups==
The climbers most prone to injuries are intermediate to expert within lead climbing or bouldering.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.climbing.com.au/Who%20gets%20injured%20in%20the%20gym.pdf |title=Indoor rock climbing: who gets injured? |last1=Wright |first1=D. M. |last2=Royle |first2=T. J. |last3=Marshall |first3=T |year=2001 |publisher=Br J Sports Med |accessdate=11 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110218231323/http://www.climbing.com.au/Who%20gets%20injured%20in%20the%20gym.pdf |archive-date=18 February 2011 |url-status=dead }}</ref>
==Overuse injuries in climbing==
In terms of overuse injuries a British study found that:<ref>{{cite book |title=The Science of Rock Climbing and Mountaineering |type=A collection of scientific articles |chapter=Injuries and associated training and performance characteristics in recreational rock climbers |last1=article by: Doran |first1=D. A. |last2= Reay |first2=M. |date=2000 |isbn=0-7360-3106-5 |publisher= Human Kinetics Publishing}}</ref>
* 40% occurred in the fingers
* 16% in the shoulders
* 12% in the elbows
* 5% in the knees
* 5% in the back
* 4% in the wrists
One injury that tend to be very common among climbers is [[Carpal tunnel syndrome]]. It is found in about 25% of climbers.<ref name=preston>{{cite web |url=http://www.hughston.com/hha/a.climb.htm |title=Rock Climbing Reaching New Heights |last1=Preston |first1=Dayton |date= |publisher=Hughston health alert|accessdate=11 January 2011}}</ref>
=== Finger injuries ===
604 injured rock climbers were prospectively evaluated from January 1998 to December 2001, due to the rapid growth of new complex finger trauma in the mid-1980s. Of the most frequent injuries, three out of four were related to the fingers: pulley injuries accounted for 20%, tendovaginitis for 7%, and joint capsular damage for 6.1%.<ref>{{cite journal |pmid=12825883 |title=Pulley injuries in rock climbers |last1=Schöffl |first1=V. |last2=Hochholzer |first2=T. |last3=Winkelmann |first3=H.P. |last4=Strecker |first4=W. |date=Summer 2003 |publisher=Wilderness & environmental medicine |volume=14 |issue=2 |journal=Wilderness Environ Med |pages=94–100 |doi=10.1580/1080-6032(2003)014[0094:piirc]2.0.co;2|doi-access=free }}</ref>
==== Pulleys ====
Damage to the [[flexor tendon pulley]]s that encircle and support the tendons that cross the finger joints is the most common finger injury within the sport (see [[climber's finger]]).<ref name=preston />
The main culprit for pulley related injuries is the common crimp grip, especially in the closed position. The crimp grip requires a near ninety-degree flexion of the middle finger joint, which produces a tremendous force load on the A2 pulley. Injuries to the A2 pulley can range from microscopic to partial tears and, in the worst case, complete ruptures. Some climbers report hearing a pop, which might be a sign of a significant tear or complete rupture, during an extremely heavy move (e.g. tiny crimp, one- or two-finger pocket). Small partial tears, or inflammation can occur over the course of several sessions.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nicros.com/archive/A2_pulley_injury.cfm |title=Finger Tendon Pulley Injury |last1=Hörst |first1=Eric J |year=2008 |publisher=Nicros |accessdate=11 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090316074336/http://www.nicros.com/archive/A2_pulley_injury.cfm |archive-date=16 March 2009 |url-status=dead }}</ref>
* '''Grade I''' – Sprain of the finger ligaments (collateral ligaments), pain locally at the pulley, pain when squeezing or climbing.
* '''Grade II''' – Partial rupture of the pulley tendon. Pain locally at the pulley, pain when squeezing or climbing, possible pain while extending your finger.
* '''Grade III''' – Complete rupture of the pulley, causing bowstringing of the tendon. Symptoms can include: Pain locally at the pulley (usually sharp), may feel/hear a 'pop' or 'crack', swelling and possible bruising, pain when squeezing or climbing, pain when extending your finger, pain with resisted flexion of the finger.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://climbinginjuries.com/page/fingers |title=DIAGNOSIS: Pulleys |last1=Roseborrough |first1=Aimee |last2=Roseborrough |first2=Kyle |year=2009 |publisher= |accessdate=11 January 2011}}</ref>
==== Knuckle ====
*Stress fractures
*Collateral ligament injuries
=== Shoulder injuries ===
Shoulder related injuries include [[rotator cuff]] tear, strain or [[tendinitis]], biceps tendinitis and [[Slap lesion|SLAP lesion]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://climbinginjuries.com/page/shoulders |title=Climbing Injuries: Shoulders |last1=Roseborrough |first1=Aimee |last2=Roseborrough |first2=Kyle |year=2009 |publisher= |accessdate=11 January 2011}}</ref>
=== Elbow injuries ===
[[Tennis elbow]] (Lateral Epicondylitis) is a common elbow injury among climbers, as is [[Golfer's elbow]] (Medial Epicondylitis, which is similar, but occurs on the inside of the elbow).
===Calluses, dry skin===
Climbers often develop calluses on their fingers from regular contact with the rock and the rope. When calluses split open they expose a raw layer of skin that can be very painful. This type of injury is commonly referred to as a flapper.
The use of [[magnesium carbonate]] (chalk) for better grip dries out the skin and can often lead to cracked and damaged hands <ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.kletterretter.com/en/about-us/ |title=Hand cream for rock climbers |website=Kletter Retter |accessdate=5 February 2015 |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20150206023238/http://www.kletterretter.com/en/about-us/ |archivedate=February 6, 2015 }}</ref>
There are a number of skincare products available for climbers that help to treat calluses, moisturise dry hands and reduce recovery time.
==Young/adolescent climbers==
"Any finger injury that is sustained by a young adolescent (12–16) should be seen by a physician and have x-rays performed. These skeletally immature athletes are very susceptible to developing debilitating joint arthritis later in adulthood."<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.athleticadvisor.com/injuries/ue/finger/finger_injuries.htm |title=Finger Injuries |last1=Edell |first1=David |date=24 October 2009 |publisher= |accessdate=11 January 2011}}</ref>
==See also==
* Related topics
**[[Carpal tunnel syndrome]]
**[[Climber's finger]]
**[[Golfer's elbow]]
**[[Repetitive strain injury]]
**[[Radial tunnel syndrome]]
**[[Tennis elbow]]
* Lists and glossaries
** [[List of climbing topics]]
** [[Climbing terminology]]
** [[Climbing command]]
== References ==
{{Reflist}}
[[Category:Climbing]]
[[Category:Rock climbing]]
[[Category:Overuse injuries]]
[[Category:Sports medicine]]
[[Category:Inflammations]]
[[Category:Soft tissue disorders]]