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'''Climber's finger''' is one of the most common [[climbing injuries]] within the sport of [[rock climbing]]. It is an [[Sports injuries|overuse injury]] that usually manifests in a swollen middle or ring finger due to a damaged [[flexor tendon pulley]], normally the A2 or A4 pulley. It is particularly common after a repeated utilization of small holds.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.hughston.com/hha/a.climb.htm |title=Rock Climbing Reaching New Heights |last1=Preston |first1=Dayton |date= |publisher=Hughston health alert|accessdate=12 January 2011}}</ref> Continued climbing on an injured finger may result in increased downtime in order to recover.<ref name=nicros>{{cite web|url=http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/finger-tendon-pulley-injury/ |title=Finger Tendon Pulley Injury |last1=Hörst |first1=Eric J |year=2008 |publisher=Nicros |accessdate=12 January 2011 |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20110930151110/http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/finger-tendon-pulley-injury/ |archivedate=September 30, 2011 }}</ref>
==Treatment==
Management of tendon injuries in the fingers is to follow the [[RICE (medicine)|RICE]] method.<ref name=nicros /><ref>{{cite web |url=http://climbinginjuries.com/page/fingers |title=Fingers and Pulleys |last1=Roseborrough |first1=Aimee |last2=Roseborrough |first2=Kyle |year=2009 |publisher= |accessdate=12 January 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Schöffl |first1=Volker |last2=Schöffl |first2=I. |year=2007 |title=Finger pain in rock climbers: reaching the right differential diagnosis and therapy |journal=J Sports Med Phys Fitness |volume= 47|issue= 1|pages=70–8 |doi= |pmid=17369801}}<!--|accessdate=12 January 2011 --></ref>
* Immediately cease climbing and any other activity that puts stress on the injured finger. Consult a doctor if there is noticeable "bowstringing" on the [[flexor tendon pulley|flexor tendon]] or if you are unsure about the nature of the injury.
* There are different theories out there for the preferred line of approach. Some argue for the use of [[NSAIDs]] and ice for visible swelling only.
* Light massage can be used to increase blood flow to the injured area, aiding recovery. Massage tools such as acupressure rings can be beneficial in the same way.
* Use of [[collagen]] supplements may help the tendons recover faster by providing much needed building block nutrients.
* When the pain and swelling is gone (depending of the [[Climbing injuries#Pulleys|grade]] of the injury, 1–4 weeks), begin with an active healing process – containing squeezing putty clay or a stress ball. Combine this with mild exercise, such as finger flexions, to ensure your finger will heal properly and better prepared for future stress. The use of heating pads and cold water baths are also mentioned in several sources in order to increase blood flow. Use this therapy for about twice as long as the previous resting period (2–8 weeks) before gradually returning, with the utmost care, to climbing.
* Gradually return to climbing while using prophylactic taping every time you climb, and spend the first weeks climbing relatively easy routes with big holds, good footholds and keep your sessions short and stay away from overhangs and campus areas/boards.
* Return to full-force climbing if easy climbing yields no pain. Continue taping (it will also serve as a mental note of the previous injury) and avoid tweaky crimps and pockets for several months, since complete tendon healing can take 100 days or more.
==References==
{{Reflist}}
[[Category:Climbing]]
[[Category:Rock climbing]]
[[Category:Overuse injuries]]
[[Category:Inflammations]]
[[Category:Soft tissue disorders]]
[[Category:Fingers]]
[[Category:Ligaments]]
{{climbing-stub}}
{{ligament-stub}}
==Treatment==
Management of tendon injuries in the fingers is to follow the [[RICE (medicine)|RICE]] method.<ref name=nicros /><ref>{{cite web |url=http://climbinginjuries.com/page/fingers |title=Fingers and Pulleys |last1=Roseborrough |first1=Aimee |last2=Roseborrough |first2=Kyle |year=2009 |publisher= |accessdate=12 January 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Schöffl |first1=Volker |last2=Schöffl |first2=I. |year=2007 |title=Finger pain in rock climbers: reaching the right differential diagnosis and therapy |journal=J Sports Med Phys Fitness |volume= 47|issue= 1|pages=70–8 |doi= |pmid=17369801}}<!--|accessdate=12 January 2011 --></ref>
* Immediately cease climbing and any other activity that puts stress on the injured finger. Consult a doctor if there is noticeable "bowstringing" on the [[flexor tendon pulley|flexor tendon]] or if you are unsure about the nature of the injury.
* There are different theories out there for the preferred line of approach. Some argue for the use of [[NSAIDs]] and ice for visible swelling only.
* Light massage can be used to increase blood flow to the injured area, aiding recovery. Massage tools such as acupressure rings can be beneficial in the same way.
* Use of [[collagen]] supplements may help the tendons recover faster by providing much needed building block nutrients.
* When the pain and swelling is gone (depending of the [[Climbing injuries#Pulleys|grade]] of the injury, 1–4 weeks), begin with an active healing process – containing squeezing putty clay or a stress ball. Combine this with mild exercise, such as finger flexions, to ensure your finger will heal properly and better prepared for future stress. The use of heating pads and cold water baths are also mentioned in several sources in order to increase blood flow. Use this therapy for about twice as long as the previous resting period (2–8 weeks) before gradually returning, with the utmost care, to climbing.
* Gradually return to climbing while using prophylactic taping every time you climb, and spend the first weeks climbing relatively easy routes with big holds, good footholds and keep your sessions short and stay away from overhangs and campus areas/boards.
* Return to full-force climbing if easy climbing yields no pain. Continue taping (it will also serve as a mental note of the previous injury) and avoid tweaky crimps and pockets for several months, since complete tendon healing can take 100 days or more.
==References==
{{Reflist}}
[[Category:Climbing]]
[[Category:Rock climbing]]
[[Category:Overuse injuries]]
[[Category:Inflammations]]
[[Category:Soft tissue disorders]]
[[Category:Fingers]]
[[Category:Ligaments]]
{{climbing-stub}}
{{ligament-stub}}