|Grid Ref: NZ204560 Aspect: N Routes: 39 Max Length: 80 Average Length: 15|
|Altitude: 0 mtrs Walk in: 0 mins Route quality: ** Bouldering quality: *|
The quarry is between Sunniside and Stanley in County Durham about 8 miles from Newcastle.From Sunniside follow the A6076 towards South Stanley for 3 miles until a large white pub (The Causey Arch) is reached. Turn right into the Causey Park picnic area. Park in the picnic area car park and descend on foot following signs directing one to Causey Arch and the gorge, to reach the crag in 5 minutes. The X30/X31 buses leave about half hourly from Eldon Square, ask for The Causey Arch Hotel.
This is an old sandstone quarry important for its proximity to Newcastle. The routes are of a high standard and the rock is reasonably sound and well provided with trees for belays. The quarry is in a sheltered situation and is often in condition in poor weather, but soil runoff from the wood on top of the crag means that some cleaning of the harder routes is advisable.
Coal Measures Sandstone Carboniferous Westphalian
Sound sandstone, but usually dirty.
Other interesting stuff
It's worth a trek up the valley to have a look at the rather impressive Causey Arch bridge, the oldest surviving single arch railway bridge in the world.
The crag was discovered in the nineteen fifties by Nev Hannaby after a tip off from a fellow coal worker. Nev lived a short walk from the crag, which rapidly became the Wednesday evening venue for the 'Crag Lough Group' of Nev, Albert Rosher, Eric Rayson and Geoff Oliver. Many of the classic lines were done at this time and named, but the details are now stored in Nev's memory banks. The Mangler, climbed by Nev, was called Causey Crack and another one of Nev's lines, Telstar, was The Corner. Activity continued in sporadic bursts, with Bob and Tommy Smith launching their careers with The Dangler in the late 1960's, Karl Telfer adding Sandman in the mid 70's and in the early 1980's the Perplexity and Mauler roofs were cracked by Paul Linfoot and George Haydon respectively.
|A Means to an End||VS 4c||Start at the right hand end of the right wall of Hanging Crack where the face is severely undercut. Climb onto a ledge and move right onto the arete, which is followed to the top.|
|Diagonal Direct||HS 4b||1|
|Caff's Crimpy Cracker||MVS 5a||2|
|Telstar Crack (Telstar Direct)||VS 4c||1|
|Telstar Corner||S 4a||1|
|Telstar Corner Direct||VS 4b||1|
|Right Hand Wall||VS 5a|
|Right Hand Wall Direct||HVS 5b||1|
|White Traverse||VS 4b|
|Low Level Traverse||f5|
|The Haunt||HVS 5a|
|Wall Route One||S 4b||Goes up the middle of the small triangular wall at the left end of the crag, moving right on small holds at the top.|
|Spiders Crack||S 4b|
|Wall Route 2||HS 4c|
|Dusky Maiden||S 4c|
|Quarry Wall||VS 4c|
|Overhanging Wall||HVS 5b|
|Crack and Chimney||S 4b|
|The Mauler Roof 20m||E5 6b|
|The Mauler||E3 5b|
|The Mangler||HVS 5a|
|The Dangler||E3 5c|
|Route 2.5||HVS 5a|
|Route 2.75||HVS 5b|
|The Arete||HS 4b|
|Wall Route Three||S 4b|
|Hanging Crack||VS 4b||In the corner to the right. Climb the crack (awkward in the middle) until a small ledge is attained. Traverse right and finish up Causey Crack.|
|Hanging Crack alternative start||VS 4c||Takes the wall to the right. Mantelshelf onto a ledge and climb the wall on poor holds moving slightly left until better holds lead into Hanging Crack.|
|Causey Crack||VS 4c||The steep wall to the right of Hanging Crack. One of the best routes in the quarry. Climb up onto a small ledge at 5m and pull onto a sloping ledge on the right. Pull into a small niche and continue to the top via the crack.|