From Northumberland Climbing
Jump to navigation Jump to search
Grid Ref: NT938403   Aspect: S   Routes: 32   Max Length: 15   Average Length: 6
Altitude: 75 mtrs   Walk in: 5 mins   Route quality: **   Bouldering quality: **

The crag lies roughly mid way between Wooler and Berwick, close to the village of Etal. About 11/2 kilometres north of Etal on the B6354 a farm lane leads off to the east. Parking is available on the side of the lane before the farm is reached. The top of the crag lies beyond the farm and can be reached in 5 minutes. Please ask at the farm for permission before climbing.


A pleasant sandstone crag facing south and reaching a height of 15 metres. Although the rock in places must be treated with care, this crag is a beginner's paradise: there are numerous routes in the easier grades on slabs, walls and cracks. There are a couple of very steep harder lines on doubtful rock.


Fell Sandstone Carboniferous, Dinantian

Good on all of the easier routes.


Ask at farm

Other interesting stuff[edit]

Millstones were quarried here, and allegedly there is a blank millstone in the rock where extraction failed.


The crag has been climbed on for a long while, Ken Macdonald ascended Marcher Lord in the early seventies, but it was only in the 1979 edition of the guidebook that the routes were named and graded. Since then development has been sporadic, many new lines attempting to fill already small gaps or providing variations to existing routes. There have, however, been some notable exceptions. In 1982, Bob Smith accepted the challenge of the big roof to produce Death or Glory. At the same time he climbed the equally difficult, but slightly less scary, Do or Die. Eight years later Bob returned and, on one day, climbed three new lines including Much Ado About Nothing and, with Andy Birtwistle, the difficult Legal Separation. In 1992 Karl Telfer, in the company of his brother Graham, added Faye of Flying to the main overhang while in the previous year the pair, with Joe Gilhespy, found an excellent and independent line to the right of Marcher Lord to give This Pedestrian. Tim Catterall, visiting the crag in September 1994 added a number of additional lines, A Pocket Full of Lichenight being the best.


Name Grade Stars Description
No O Levels Required E3 5c
Overhanging Crack VS 4c 1
Much Ado About Nothing E1 5b
Legal Separation E4 6a
Western Arête VS 4c 2 The left-hand arete of the crag has some lovely exposed moves, shame it's over so soon. Enter the crack on the left with difficulty, arrange some gear in the parallel crack then make increasingly exposed moves out right. Take in the view and finish up the arete.
Western Arête Direct VS 5b
Cheat VD 1
Kinmont Willie VD 1
Jock O the Syde VD 1
Reivers Way D 1
Wall and Fluted Slab S 4a
Steep Fluted Wall HVS 4c
A Pocket Full of Lichenight HVS 5a
Slab and Black Wall VD 1
Slab Crack Corner M
BerryGoRound VS 4c
Slab Crack D 1
The Flutings VD 2
Hi Diddle Diddle VS 4b 1
Marcher Lord VS 5a 3
This Pedestrian E3 5c 1
Footsloggers VS 4c 1
Potters Way VS 5a 1
Potters Way Variation E3 5c
Slanting Crack HVD 4a 1
Eastern Arête S 4a 2
Do or Die E4 6a
Faye or Fly E5 6a
Death or Glory E4 5c
Border Ballad HVS 5b 1
Thrutch S 4a
Route One M
Route Two HVS 5b
Route Three VS 5a
Route Four M
Flight of Fancy f5+
Swarm V0 4c
Dumbo f5
Warmer Upper f3
Cracker f3
Nameless Arete V2 5c
Nameless Arete SS f6B
Toothless Fairy V0+ 5a
Fatty False Teeth f6A+
Munching Molar f6A+
Lip Service f6A+
La Bouche f6A
Gum Boils f5+
Hair Lip f5+
The Undertaker f5
Knocking on Heaven's Door f6A
Satanic Curses f6C
Gravedigger f4
Golden Grahams f6C+
The Berryhill Nibbler 4c
Bareback Rider 4c
The Furrow f6A+
The Furrow Variation f7A+
The Courting of Jilly Cooper f6A
Whipcracker f6A
Thing f4+
Lurch f6A
It f5+
Fester f6A+
Nameless Slab f7A
Nameless Slab SS f7B
Mortisha f7A+
Puggsley f6A
Boulder Direct HVS 5a
Boulder RH VS 5a
Lunger's Leap E1 5b
Escape from Hell f6A
Grim Reaper 4c