Thrum Mill

Approach

There is no legitimate access along the river bank from either direction. The caravan park to the west is private The easiest access is from the end of the trading estate on the south side of Rothbury. You can cross the fence at the north eastern corner of this estate and get down through the wood to the crag. Alternately, you can brave the river. Park in the large lay-by at the bottom of the hill going into Rothbury along the B6344 from the east and head down the public bridleway to Thrum Mill and Rothbury. The crag is situated where the river narrows to a few feet. Look carefully at the crag and decide for yourself if it is worth the leap over the narrows or the plodge through the shallows upstream.

Routes

The routes are described from left to right.
1  Hooker 10m E4 6b 
Climb the left ar? of the crag and climb round a small roof at the top.
2  Joint Effort 10m E1 5c 
Start right of Hooker, up a groove, then up the wall passing the left end of a larger roof to ledges.
3  The Final Cut E4 5c 
Start right of Joint Effort and pull onto the wall. Move up right and climb the wall just left of a faint rib to pull round the right side of the larger roof and gain ledges.
4  Lethal Addiction 10m E3 5c 
Start right of The Final Cut and make a horrible mantel to gain the left side of a groove. Up this pulling over roofs to finish.
5  Withdrawal Symptoms 10m E2 5b 
The wall right of Lethal Addiction passing a flake near the top.
6  Crack Attack 10m S 4a 
The corner to the right of Withdrawal Symptoms. The wall just left of this can also be climbed at a similar standard.
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