Turn north off the B6318 military Road 1km east of Greenhead along a no-through road, signposted to the Carvoran Roman Army Museum. Follow the road for about 1.5km past the museum until High Old Shields farm is reached on the left and the crag on the right. It is important to ask for permission, the landowner is sympathetic to climbers but asks that climbers see him at the farm before climbing.

Routes

The guide to this crag is the work and copyright of Stewart Wilson and published in ?North Of England Rock Climbs? in 1992.

Seen from below the crag consists of 3 sections: Left Hand Buttress, Main Face and Right Hand Buttress. Steep grassy gullies separate each section. The best descent is to the rigt of Right Hand Buttress at the West end of the crag. The climbs are described from left to right as you face the crag.

A barrel shaped buttress with three faces. The front face is undercut.

1 Hopesike Wall 7m VD

Not an outstanding climb. Start 4 metres up the slope from the foot of the buttress at the foot of a broken groove. Climb the groove past a small jutting nose and after 3 metres step right and finish up rightwards on ledges.

2 Green Fingers 7m HVS 5b

Start just left of the front face at an obvious V-groove. Climb the V-groove to good holds in a break above the overhang. Pull over strenuously using a thin crack. Finish direct.

3 This 8m VS 4b *

A good little climb, steep and interesting. Start at the foot of the front face at a square hole-like recess. Climb to the prominent overhang and ascend the thin crack splitting its right hand side. Climb the wall direct on good holds.

4 That 6m S

A worthwhile, steep wall climb. Start below the centre of the steep right hand wall. Climb the wall on good holds.

This is about 20 metres long and has a ledge system at half height. The upper left hand side is dominated by huge unclimbed roofs. The right hand part has an obvious green drainage line which ends as a deep chimney/crack and is the line of Walk Like A Dog. The main face ends at an ar? identified by an arrow shaped overhang at 5 metres.

5 Snipe 8m MS

Start at the foot of a dirty groove at the left side of the main face at a point to the right of which the roofs start to develop. Climb the dirty groove until pleasant moves on good holds lead rightwards above the overhangs. A wide cleft is then followed to the top.

6 Here 8m MVS 4b

Start on the first patch of level ground on the left side of Main Face, just left of the prominent undercut rib of The Snout. Climb the shallow corner to a large flat ledge. From the left hand end of the ledge pull over the overhang on good holds and traverse diagonally right to finish.

7 The Snout 5m MVS 4b

Good value. Start below the jutting prow. Climb the undercut ar?. 'Thank God' holds appear when most needed. Finish on the ledge above.

There 11m VS 5a **

The most impressive natural line on the crag and at its grade a hard won through absorbing effort. Start 5 metres right of The Snout below the impressive V-groove which cleaves the top overhangs. Climb the initial undercut wall via a thin crack to gain a ledge. Pull under the roof and gain the upper groove. Follow this to the top, moving out left to finish.

Breathe E3 6a (**new**)

Follow There (VS, 5a) to the ledge below the groove between the two overhangs. Swing out onto the righthand overhang and traverse right to a good sling placement, then reach to a sloping hold and pull over the overhang. Climb 6m up a grassy slope to a good belay on an iron post.
Grade unconfirmed, originally reported as E2/E3

The base of the crag now forms a small bay or amphitheatre with a jutting roof at 2 metres.

8 Everywhere 11m MVS 4b

Start at the foot of the ar? at the right hand end of the amphitheatre. Climb the ar? by the shallow groove on its left to a good ledge. Move just over a metre to the right and climb the wall above using a thin crack which soon peters out.

Variation Finish 4c

From the ledge, surmount the bulge directly above the ar? and move left to finish at some prominent knobs of rock.

9 Walk Like A Dog 11m S

Better than it looks with a steep finish. Start 2 metres right of the amphitheatre at the foot of the obvious green runnel. Race up the runnel to a ledge then struggle up the strenuous chimney above.

10 Crab Fair 16m D **

A fine combination of wall traverse and slab; a beginners dream. Start just right of the obvious green runnel. Climb the steep wall rightwards on memorable holds to a good ledge. Traverse right easily and swarm onto a higher ledge. Just around the corner on the right is a groove. Climb this until it can be quitted for excellent jugs and slab finish on the left.

11 Goose Fair 11m HS

A good steep climb, but rather awkward. Start at the foot of the ar? with the arrow-shaped overhang at the right end of Main Face. Climb the ar?, passing the overhang to gain the good ledge. Finish as for Crab Fair by climbing the groove on the right until jugs on the left lead to a slab finish.

Variation Finish 4c

From the point of arrival on the ledge, climb directly up and over bulges to gain the top slab of Crab Fair.

This is a smaller, scruffy and broken buttress at the right hand end of the crag. Short scrambles, but nothing of interest.

Approach

Routes