Swinburne Old Quarry

Approach

The quarry is a 1km walk along a private quarry road from the A68, 7.5 miles south of West Woodburn. The road is signposted to Barrasford Quarry. This is not a right of way.

Routes

The climbs are described from left to right. The descriptions and grades are taken direct and unchecked from a guide submitted by Gordon Thompson in the early 1970s.
The quarry is a rather typical whinstone quarry of the area, with unstable rock, poor protection, few belays at the top and poor routes. For those still determined to take on this place, the following descriptions offer the further challenge of actually finding the routes. It must be borne in mind that at the time of writing, the author was quite possibly mad. You have been warned.
1  Belks Groove 17m VS 5a 
The deceptively fine looking groove on the left of the crag. Peg in place at crux. Top is loose and dangerous.
2  Nicky Nocky 22m D  
Scramble up dirty ledges to an awkward corner which leads to ominous blocks and a narrow groove. Climb this to a ramp on the left which leads easily to the top.
3  The Sad Man 20m HS  
Climbs a prominent nose high up on the left of the bay. An unusual climb with a fine exposed finish. Climb wall (arrow) to a niche on the left at 4 metres, then straight up to a grass ledge. Ascend the awkward corner above until it is possible to make a delicate step right on to the nose. Move right a couple of moves then straight up on good holds.
4  Red Wall 20m VD  
3 metres right of the previous route is a groove with an overhang on the right at 3 metres. Climb the groove to a large block in Grimbled Bay. Climb the Red Wall.
5  Grimbled Corner 20m D  
The obvious corner bounding the left side of the bay.
6  Grimbled Arete 18m D  **
The broken rib in the centre of the bay.
7  Octal Search 11m E2 5c *
Just right of the blunt arete. Straight up and over the little roof at half height, then up the thin crack and headwall above. Non existent protection, if I recall correctly.
8  Fruit Machine 16m VS  
Climb the white slab to the niche then finish up the fine wall on the left.
9  Tic Tac Toe 16m S  
Starts up the prominent groove and then directly up by the broken wall on good holds
10  Trundle 13m D  
Starts in the centre of the next bay. Scramble to the foot of the detatched pinnacle and climb this directly to the top.
11  White Slab VS 5a 
The white slab, obviously.
12  Donkeys Dick 15m VD  
Up ledges on the right side of the bay to half height, finish up the arete.
13  Square Groove 13m MVS  
The shallow square corner right of the previous climb is climbed direct to an awkward bulge at half height. COntinue up the corner and wall above.
14  Dum Dum 12m VD  
Start on the little slab left of the easy way down. Climb it direct.
15  Hobby Horse 12m VD  
The cleaned corner left of the first cairn.
16  May Groove 10m D  
The corner on the right of the buttress behind the cairn. Scrambling leads to a clean corner.
17  The Whicker Man 12m HS  
7 metres right of a large cairn. Climb to a sloping ledge, nove left and then awkwardly up to good finishing holds.
18  Ballaker 10m HVS  
12 metres right of the cairn is a shallow corner with a sentry box above and left. Reach ledge with difficulty. Move up corner for a few feet until a move right leads to excellent handholds and a good finish.
19  Finger of Suspicion 12m VS  
A direct line up the buttress behind the second cairn. Climb the groove, peg for aid to a hard mantleshelf. Move left and climb the crack past a doubtful spike.
20  Spasm 13m E1 5c 
12 metres left of the third cairn is a steep wall with a prominent hanging block. Begin on left, move right and up, then left to block. Mantleshelf up right, then swing precariously left and pull into niche.
Just right of the centre of the crag is a suspicious crack which provides a useful landmark.
21  Tearaway 13m MVS  
The wall left of the crack. Climb a small groove to a ledge left of a sentry box. Follow jam crack above to niche then surmount top block.
22  Quarry Crack 10m MS  
The obvious crack in the corner.
23  Little Bobby 12m S  
Starts on a small sloping ledge on the buttress to the right of Quarry Crack. Surmount an awkward bulge and step right onto a detached block. Make a step left and swing round the corner to a hidden ledge. Easier to the top.
24  Hard Corner 8m S  
The corner right of the previous route.
25  Crack and Slab 12m MS  
Climb shallow groove 8 metres right of Hard Corner to a ledge. Move left and up flaky corner.
26  Terrible Smell Wall 16m VS  
Named after a dead hedgehog. 5 metres right of an Easy Way Up is a standing stone. The climb takes the clear smooth wall behind. Balance upwards and move right to a ledge. Attain ledge above then climb short difficult wall on very small holds.
8 metres right, above mossy ledges, is a vertical wall with a conspicious drill mark
27  Impossible Holed Route 13m VS  
Scramble up ledges and then make a move to reach drill hole, which is used to gain a ledge on the right, hand traverse to foothold on left and a better finish.
28  Peter Tuppy 15m MS  
The groove left of the high section
29  Hikey Doodle 17m MVS  
From the ledge, make a hard move up, followed by a swing right to a ledge. Trend left over ledges and escape left.
30  Shattered Pinnacle 16m VD  
From a ledge make an awkward move up a corner to a ledge on the left. Trend right up steps to a pinnacle which is climbed to the top.
31  Moonbeam Sheerbliss VS 5a 
The wall to the right. A classic. Scramble up ledges to the foot of the vertical wall. Climb diagonally left up an obvious ledge line to a delicate move left followed by a pull and good climbing to the top.
Second West Buttress
32  Sting 16m MVS  
Climb ledges to a steep wall which leads to large loose blocks. Stand on these and mantleshelf on to rotten ledges.
33  Patagonia Ice Cap Direct 16m MS  
The rib bounding the buttress on the right. Begin in a small corner and go straight up.
West Buttress
34  One Misty Evening 18m HVS  
Climb pleasant lower wall to a grass ledge below upper buttress. Start slightly right and gain a sloping ledge. Move left delicately and then straight up on magnificent hidden jugs.
Karl Telfers additions
The following routes were recorded by brothers Karl, Simon and Graham Telfer. They are on the central and right-hand side of the crag, most likely to the right of the routes described above. The mentions of peg protection are from memory. Note that this was not such a horrendous crime in 1986! And these routes are quite high and on unreliable rock.
35  Final Day E5 6b 
Climbs the obvious smooth wall in the centre of the quy. Poor peg for protection.
36  Kop That! 16m E1 5b 
Climbs a groove line 3m left of Final Day
37  Swinburne Gooves HVS 5a 
Climbs a stepped groove 16m left of Final Day. A good route. Was marked by a cairn which may be gone now.
38  Twenty Years After 16m E5 6b 
The groove right of Final Day.
To the right of the central area is a broken grassy area that can be used for descent. Right of this is a bay above a broken area.
39  Thin White Line 16m MS  
This route climbs a thin quartz line on the wall at the back of the bay.
40  World Cup Willy 10m E3 5c 
The wall right of Thin White Line - peg protection.
41  Team of '66 10m E1 5b 
Groove and overhang right of World Cup Willy.
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