Spindlestone Heugh

Approach

The crag is situated near Warren Mill Caravan Site, between Belford and Bamburgh and is easily seen from the road when approaching from the A1. Cars can be parked near the Caravan Site and the crag reached by traversing the hillside on the left of the site.

Routes

The climbs are described from left to right and are all contained on the west end of the crag, which contains two large buttresses. Other lines exist, but loose rock and brambles make future development a hazardous proposition
1  Obverse Route 14m VD  
An ascending traverse starting just left of patella. Move up and along the wall, crossing the chimney then straight up
2  Patella 11m S  
The steep wall 3m left of West Chimney. Climb up using rounded holds. Bear left to a mantleshelf and move slightly right to the top.
3  West Chimney 9m VD  
The obvious "V" shaped chimney
4  Pilgrimage 15m VS 5a 
Climb the black groove and move rightbeeneath a small overhang. Ascend the wall, moving left onto the arete. Finish straight up on doubtful holds.
5  Alley-Sloper 9m D  
Takes the square-cut corner to the right of the first buttress.
6  East Chimney 11m VD  
The chimney to the left of Shotgun Wedding
7  Shotgun Wedding 15m S  
Starts 5m left of Blockhead on Number Two Buttress. Climb the curving crack and blocks above. Finish up the short steep wall
8  Descent Route 18m M  
The obvious wide and easy chimney on Number Two Buttress.
9  Blockhead 18m VS 4c 
An allegedly excellent climb culminating in a series of interesting mantleshelf moves. The climb starts just left of the buttress. Move up to and past the perched block. Continue on awkwardly spaced holds to the top.
10  Bisto 14m VD  
The twin cracks to the right of Blockhead. Climb the cracks and the blocks to the top of the crag.
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