Raven Crag - Kyloe

Approach

Park at Holborn on the Chatton Kyloe road. The farm road becomes a bridleway which winds past the crag

Routes

In the centre of the crag is a prominent overhanging corner. To the left of this a tottering wall of quarried rock has an overhang low down which provides a couple of hard problems.
The routes are described from left to right
1  Buster Keaton HVS 5c 
The overhang left of Close Encounters
2  Close Encounters 8m E2 5c **
From the sandy corner reach the thin crack and climb it, escaping left at its top. A good route, making a visit worthwhile
3  Raven Mad 13m E4 5c 
Climb Close Encounters and reach a large pocket directly above its thin crack, stride right on large sandy holds and pull up to the break. Climb the wall past a thin crack. Lunacy.
4  The Ayes Have It E8 7a *
Climb the centre of the wall to the right of close encounters via the two prominent eyes.Powerful and dynamic climbing is needed to gain the eye from where easier climbing leads to the top.
The corner and its right wall are loose and unpleasant. Further right the rock improves again and provides 3 routes on a short wall.
5  Larry 6m HVS 5b 
The stepped corner groove
6  Moe HVS 5a 
The centre of the wall
7  Curly VS 5a 
The short curving flake and wall above
© 2003 The Northumbrian Mountaineering Club Editing and website contact: