Approach
The crag is approached from Gilsland (2 kilometres from Greenhead on the A69). Follow the Spadeadam road north for 2 kilometres to Moscow Farm and turn right onto a good but narrow road. Follow this road through forests and across open moorland for 10 kilometres passing through a gate and a shallow ford at Butterbum. The tarmac ends at a wooden bridge about 700 metres before Chumsike Lodge. It is possible to obtain permission from the Forestry Commission to continue by car almost to the foot of the crag. Those without permission can park between the bridge and the forest gate. Walk through the gate and follow the road round to the left to reach Churnsike Lodge. Take the left fork here and continue past a ruined barn on the left to reach a second junction. Turn right and continue for a further 1.2 kilometres ignoring a junction on the right after 1 kilometre to reach a dip in the road over a stream. The crag is just visible on the right through the trees and is reached by following the stream. From Chumsike Lodge allow 5-6 minutes from the picnic area by following the red and orange waymarked tracks.
Routes
First Wall
The first outcrop of rock at the westem end of the crag, terminated on its right by a chimney full of jammed blocks.
Second Wall
This is set back from First wall and extends to a large cave.
Main Wall
Extends rightwards for 10 metres to the easy angled ar? and is distinguished by the square shaped roof at two thirds height.
The area from Almighty Voice to Churnsike Crack is dirty and overgrown
Boulder Slab
The slab to the right and at an angle to Main Wall. It lies between the ar? and the easy cleft which has flakes jammed in its upper part.
Third Wall
Extends from the easy angled slab to the overhanging nose above a ledge on which grows two rowan trees.
Fourth Wall
This extends from the birches to the isolated pinnacle.
Padda Tower
The isolated pinnacle.
The Fifth and Sixth Walls are respectively 50 and 60 metres east of Padda Tower. Fifth Wall has a band of overhangs at 1.5 metres up; Sixth Wall has a band of overhangs at 2 metres.
The Playground
This is the name given to the 50m stretch of small outcrops and boulders between Padda Tower and the next continuous rock; Fifth Wall. One minor route is described in this area;
Fifth Wall
The steep wall to the right of the Playground has in its centre a huge detached block in a dark corner. The wall to the left of this corner has an overhang at chest height, whilst the wall to the right of this corner has a prominent jutting neb low down.
Sixth Wall
This is a further 12 metres to the right of Fifth Wall. It consists of a line of walls and buttresses ranging in height from 5-7 metres. Sixth Wall is divided into two halves by a gully. To the left of the gully is a smooth left-slanting groove and beyond this to the left a barrier of overhangs at head height guard the wall. To the right of the gully is a false wall leaning against the foot of the crag. The wall then ends in a jutting tooth-like ar? on the right.
Seventh Wall
This is the very steep wall of bubbly rock immediately right of the tooth-like ar?. Seventh Wall terminates in a very deep recessed corner, which has a fist-wide crack in the angle.
The steep overhanging wall can be climbed directly, in the middle at 5b and to the left of Hiawatha at 6a, care should be taken as the extrusions are very brittle.
| © 2003 The Northumbrian Mountaineering Club | | Editing and website contact: John Dalrymple |