From the A1 north of Felton. take the road through Shillbottle and follow signs for Warkworth to reach the main line railway crossing at old Warkworth Station after about 5 miles. Park in the lay-by by the telephone box. Walk down the road over the bridge over the dene. Go through the gate and along the edge of a field past a farm house, then cross the field to the fence corner. Cross the fence. You are now at the top of the crag. Approximately 20m right brings you onto the top of the easy way down, 20m left brings you to the top of Vanguard (a 4 metre Diff). There is no right of way,

Routes

The routes are described from left to right.

1 Nightmare on Elm Street 18m S

Start below a crackline on the left of the buttress. Climb up to the flake at 3m. and up the crack which becomes more broken higher up, to reach the foot of a hanging chimney. Up this to the top, stepping right to finish.

2 Giants Graveyard 19m VS 4c

Start 2m. right of the previous route below the rotten tree root in the broken crack. Climb up the line of the broken crack to easy ledges. Move right to finish up the wall and hanging corner with a protruding block at its top.

3 The Undertaker 22m E2 5b

Start in the right of the recess below the overhung ledge. Climb up on to the ledge and up the crack in the right edge of the buttress for 2m. Traverse left into the small hanging corner and up the wall above to reach easy ledges. Finish as for Giants Graveyard.

4 Judgement Day 20m HS

Start in the open book corner below the right edge of the buttress. Climb up the left side of the corner to a ledge and into a crack line in the edge of the buttress. Follow it to its top and move left onto the face. Up easy ledges to an overhanging wall and climb to the top finishing between the two protruding blocks.

5 Horn Blower 19m S

Start in the open book corner. Climb the corner to the ledge and follow the ramp above until it is possible to move into the flake crack on the left wall. Follow the flake and the broken crack above to the top.

6 Joshua Tree 19m VS 4c

Start 5m. right of the open book corner. Up easy ledges to a short flake crack on the left wall. Climb this and the wall above to below a broken crack leading up to a tree. Move right onto the left edge of an undercut wall and finish up to the right of the tree.

7 Deep Space 20m HVS 5a

Start as for the previous route. Up easy ledges to the deep chimney separating Jerrico Walls from the Tower of Babel. Climb the chimney until it is possible to move left onto the undercut wall and up to the top.

8 To Boldly Go 18m HVS 5a

Start below the deep off-width crack splitting the buttress with a tree at its top. Climb onto the ledge and up the crack (chockstone runner at half height). Continue up the crack until it is possible to move onto the left wall where it overhangs and finish up to the left of the tree. Alternative finish: - continue straight up the crack to the top; just as hard but not so exciting.

9 Space Odyssey 18m E4 6a

Climb the wall on the right of the deep gash in the Tower of Babel. and on the left of the thin vertical crack leading up the horizontal break. From the break climb the bulging wall at a point 1-2m right of the left edge. D initial moves lead to sustained climbing up the steep headwall.

10 The Outer Limits 18m E2 5b

Climb the wall on the right side of the vertical crack, left of the ar? of the Tower of Babel, up to the horizontal break. Attack the headwall at a point 1-2m. left of the ar?, initially on small holds to reach a good jug ( small friend placement ) and push on to the top on good holds.

11 The X. File 20m E1 5a

Climbs the impressive ar? with a tree at its top. Bold climbing up the ar? to reach a thread runner level with the horizontal break on the left wall. Continue confidently , finishing on the right side of the ar?.

13 Two Steps to Heaven 12m E1 5b

Climbs the wall leading to a large ledge on the right side of the Tower of Babel. Start 1-2m. right of the left edge of the wall. Climb up on small holds to the left of the tree on the ledge. Step left from the ledge onto the back wall which gives steep climbing to finish right of the tree at the top of the ar?.

14 Sleeper Wall 10m E2 5c

The wall right of the easy way down from the top of the Tower of Babel. Climb the right edge of the wall for 3m. ( friend placement below the small overhang ). Move left and climb up the centre of the steep wall on good but spaced holds.

15 Side Line 9m HVS 5a

Climb the narrow in-cut corner to its small overhung top. Pull over it onto the wall above and into a broken corner which is followed to the top.

16 Up the Junction 10m S

Start 1m right of the previous route. Climb up on to a ledge and up a cracked corner finishing up to a tree.

17 Night Express 10m VS 4c

2m. right of the cracked corner, climb the centre of the wall to the overhang at 7m. Pull over the overhang and finish up to the right of the tree.

19 6.05 Special 12m E2 5b

Start below the small overhang at the base of the blunt ar?. Pull over the overhang and climb up the left side of the ar?. D moves up to and over the top overhang lead to good finishing holds. ( small friend placement below overhang

20 Fast Track 12m E3 5c

Start at the base of the blunt ar?. Climb up onto the right side of the ar? to make some committing moves up past the right side of the top overhang to reach good finishing holds. ( small friend placement below overhang )

21 Branch Line 11m HVS 5b

Start 2m. right of the blunt ar?, Climb the wall directly up to the foot of a thin jagged crack and follow it to the top. ( bridging out onto the rib on the right lowers the grade

22 Hornby Double 0 14m VS 4c

Start on the left of the ar?. Move up and right to gain the overhanging recess. Exit this on the left and finish up the slab on good holds.

23 14m (no adj grade)

Climbs the left ar? of the wall direct. Begin under the overhang; surmount this and continue up the ar? on juggy holds to the top.

24 Flapjack Wall 14m E1 5b

Start 2m. right of the ar?. Overcome the overhang with difficulty and climb straight up until a blank section necessitates a few moves left to finish. ( direct finish 5c)

25 300 Miles from London 12m HVS 4c

Start at the weakness where the overhanging base recedes. Climb straight up past the left end of the recess to the top.

26 Magpie 11m S

Start at the hanging flake below the large recess. Climb up the flake to follow a small flake line leading to the left end of the recess. Climb out of the recess and up the wall to the top.

27 Ghost Train 10m HVS 5a

Start 1m right of the hanging flake. Climb the broken wall to the large recess. Pull up out of the recess at a point of weakness to make initially difficult moves up the bulging wall to reach better holds towards the top.

28 Tank Engine 8m HS

Start below the right end of the recess. Climb up into the recess and pull up via the crack leading-up past the holly tree to reach the top.

33 Double Bogey 8m HVS 5a

Start 5m. right of the corner. Climb up to a ledge below an overhang. Up via a flake to pull up on to the wall above moving left to finish.

34 Puffing Billy 8m VD

Start 2m. right of the previous route. Climb the groove up to the protruding block at 5m. and continue up weakness to the top.

35 Duchess of Athol 4m VS 4c

Start 2m. right of the previous route. Climb straight up the broken wall to finish at the same point as Puffing Billy.

36 Dangerous Crossing 9m HVS 5a

Start at a flake 2m. left of an open book corner. Climb straight up the wall moving left to finish at the top.

37 Sir Nigel Greasley 9m VS 4c

Climb up in the open book corner up the overhanging wall and past a small overhang to finish at the tree at the top.

38 Platform Ticket 10m HVS

Start 1-2m. right of the open book corner. Climb the broken wall up to the left end of a ledge at 5m. and continue up the wall below the tree to finish.

39 The Waiting Room 10m S

Start 1m. left of a ramped ledge and corner. Climb the broken wall to the ledge at 5m. Move up into the green corner and climb up the right wall to the top.

41 Mallard Fizz 10m HVS 5a

Start at the second left trending ramp, right of the corner. Up the ramp to a ledge below a diagonally overlapping wall. Climb up the edge of the overlap then over it moving left to finish.

42 Leaves on the Line 10m VS 4c

Start 1m. right of the previous route. Climb the wall left of the twin cracks and follow the broken wall left of a corner to the top.

44 Heavy Smoker 10m HVS 5a

Climb the wall on the line of a twisting crack to a ledge at 4m. Climb the wall above between the corner on the left and crack on the right, directly to the top.

45 Strange Coupling 10m VS 4c

Start at a block and climb a thin crack to the ledge at 4m. Follow the stepped crackline above to the top.

46 Buffer 10m VS 4c

Climb the crack leading to the ledge below the ar? at 4m. Climb the ar? on its right side to the top.

Approach

Routes