The best approach is from the Hareshaw Linn N.T. car park next to the small Industrial Estate in Bellingham. Follow the public footpath up the Linn to the fifth footbridge over the stream and after crossing it leave the main footpath to follow a trail up along the wooded west bank until after some 200m the emerging left end of the crag is reached.

Routes

The crag is divided into the following areas and the climbs are described from left to right:

Honeysuckle Buttress Overhanging at its base and top with a honeysuckle fringe, it has some of the best harder routes on it.

Depression Buttress Has two recesses on its right face.

Ivy Buttress Large buttress with recess in left side, topped with overhangs and poor rock at undercut base.

Yellow Wall Coloured wall with horizontal fault lines.

Gorge Wall The big wall left of the waterfall.

The Overhang The obvious large overhang on the opposite side of the burn

1 Honeysuckle Wall 8m HVS 5a

Climb the left facing wall on the left of the arete undercut at its base, finishing at a short groove.

2 The Sting 12m E3 5c

Climb the centre of the overhanging buttress to a block at 4m. Make difficult moves up diagonally left to traverse above the lip of the overhang and continue up to beneath the top overhang at the arete. Move around onto the left face and finish up the short groove.

3 Nettle Wine 10m E3 5c *

Climb up the centre of the overhanging buttress past the block at 4m. to make difficult moves to reach a good flake at 6m. Continue to beneath the top overhang and pull over at its weakest point.

4 Once Bitten 10m E3 5c

Start 2m. right of Nettle Wine and climb directly up to a small jammed block at 4m. Strenuous moves over the overhang and up the wall lead to a sloping ledge followed by a short wall to reach the top

5 Wild Garlic 12m E2 5c

Start 2m. right of Once Bitten and climb the bulging wall via an insitu thread runner at 4m. to a sloping ledge. Continue up the face to finish left of the tree at the top.

6 Honey Bee 12m HVS 5a

Start 2m. left of the corner below the undercut wall. Climb up for 2m. then left to a depression. Climb the wall above to below a tree and finish up to its right side.

7 Nightmare Wall 10m E1 5b

Start 2m. left of the corner as for Honey Bee below the undercut wall. Climb straight up the wall finishing right of the tree at the top.

8 Bad Dream 10m VS 4c

Climbs the arete on the left edge of the buttress. Bridge up the corner until good holds on the arete can be reached. Step on to the arete and climb it on its left side to the top.

9 Radiation Sickness 14m E2 5b

Start at the toe of the buttress and climb up its centre trending slightly left to finish with an awkward pullover to a small tree at the top.

10 Ozone Wall 12m E1 5b

Climb up the right side of the buttress via two depressions to make an awkward move onto a ledge to reach the top.

11 Sun Trap 15m HVS 5a

Climb up into the large recessed area to below a slot in the bulging wall. Pull up the slot to to below the overhang and climb out of its left side to the top.

12 Venus Fly Catcher 20m HVS 5a

Start as for Sun Trap but climb up into the right side of the recess to reach a block thread runner on its edge. Traverse right onto the wall for 2m then climb straight up to the first overhang. Surmount the overhang at its left end to below a second roof and pull over that to the top.

13 Night Moves 18m E3 5c

Start directly below the right edge of the large depression at the foot of a broken rib. Climb the rib and right side of the recess to its top. Pull up onto the wall above and continue strenuously past the right end of a ledge to reach the cracked block at the top.

14 High Noon 23m HVS 5a

Starts at the toe of the buttress below a curving groove leading up to the ar?. Climb up 5m. of unpleasant rock to reach the steep curving groove and follow it to the ar?. Climb straight up the buttress, moving right to finish up the overhang at the top.

15 Poison Ivy 22m E2 5b

Starts on the right hand side of the buttress below the ragged crack of Total Eclipse. Climb up to the foot of the crack at 4m. and traverse left for 2m. to below a faint vertical crackline in the buttress above. Climb the crack, difficult at first until easier climbing leads up to the overhang which presents little difficulty in reaching the top.

16 Total Eclipse 20m E2 5b *

Starts on the left hand side of Yellow Wall below a ragged crackline. Climb up into the crack and follow it to reach the crux at half height. Continue up the developing groove to finish at a tree at the top.

17 Shadow Dance 20m E2 5c

Starts below the Yellow Wall 2m. right of the ragged crackline of route 16. Climb up to a small undercut ledge at 6m. and continue up to a small cracked block and depression at 1 1m. Make a difficult move up to the left of the block and then move back up right to finish.

18 Sunbeam Wall 18m HVS 5a

Climbs the right hand side of Yellow Wall 2‑3m. left of a vegetated corner with a tree growing out of it. Climb the wall via the horizontal cracks to a ledge at 15m. and continue directly to the top.

19 Dawn Chorus 22m E2 5c

Climbs the left hand side of the Gorge Wall on the left of the undercut blocks. From the large tree 6m. above the stream climb up to a large ledge at 4m. below a wall. Climb up the centre of the wall until able to move right to pull up on the blocks. Move left and climb the wall via a thin crack to reach a ledge on the left then easily to the top.

20 Early Riser 24m E3 5c

Start from the big tree 6m. above the stream. Climb the wall left of the cave passing the right end of the ledge at 4m. below the undercut blocks. Climb up the right side of the blocks to a small ledge below the left end of the large ledge. Climb straight up the wall above moving right at the top to finish.

21 Good Morning Sunshine 26m E4 6a *

Start from the big tree 6m. above the stream. Traverse 3m. right to a cave. Climb out of the cave on the left wall up to a short crackline at 6m. Climb straight up for 4m. and then right to horizontal slots below a small overhang. Move left and up with difficulty to reach a good hold then up left to the large ledge. Climb the centre of the wall above to the top.

22 The Overhang 14m (no adj grade)

A rather obvious line! Easily up to the roof and then a little harder to the tree. A sling round the tree is advisable to lower from.

Approach

Routes