The easiest route is to approach from the western side. From the Thropton - Whittingham road, 1 km north of Cartington Farm, a barely metalled road leads off rightwards, through a gate, past a large wooden hut and towards Cartington Hill. Park somewhere sensible, around where the track goes left and through another gate onto an open field. From here a grassy path goes through the reeds and onto the shoulder of the hillside. disappearing into deep heather and bracken. Carry on through this to a stone wall and follow this up to the crag. There are two other longer routes. The stone wall described above can be reached via a right of way from Callaly. This latter route has the advantage of taking you past the far superior Maiden Chambers, but involves a long thrash across the heather. Finally, mountain bikers can follow the escarpment from Coe Crag, past Long Crag and on to Hard Heugh.

These two problems face east, level with the top of the crag. They both start from the same holds which are big chicken head/knobs