Great Dour

Approach

The crag is situated on the northern edge of Great Dour Hill above Byrness in Redesdale, 12 kilometres north of Otterburn on the A696. The crag is best approached from the Cottonshopeburn forestry picnic site. Drive up the track and park at the first ford. Walk along the riverside track, plodging through several fords en route until the edge of the forest is seen. Head for the fence on the right and follow it up to about level with the crag, then traverse the hillside to the crag.

Routes

The climbs are described from left to right and lie on the right hand side of the quarried bay in the centre of the crag.

Left of centre of the buttress there is a chimney, the first climb starts on the relatively clean buttress left of this, with a thin crack in it's upper part.

1 Rob Roy 13m VS 5a

Climb the chimney-wall to the flake and layback this to the thin crack which is climbed to an awkward finish.

Rob Roy - Direct Start 5b

Climb the fine arete and wall directly beneath the thin crack to join it at its foot.

2 Great Dour Chimney 12m VD

Climb the chimney on the left and exit through the cave at the back taking care with loose blocks.

Chimney - Direct Finish 5b

The overhang is climbed direct and though safe, is awkward, strenuous and dirty.

3 Chimney Variant 10m MVS 4c

Climb Great Dour Chimney for 7 metres then exit along an obvious ledge on its right wall. Move round the arete into a groove and climb this moving right to finish.

4 Culloden 15m E1 5c **

Climb the rather messy initial overhang of the central corner and continue up the groove to a good resting place beneath the roof. Surmount the roof and continue up the magnificent wide crack above.

5 The Bagpipes 15m S *

Surmount the overhang and continue up the corner direct.

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