Goats Buttress

Approach

There is no agreement with the landowner and climbing is currently strictly forbidden. Were climbing allowed, you would get there by following the unclassified road between Milford and Lowick to Roughting Linn and park opposite the farm track. Follow the road south towards Fenton for about 400 metres and the crag lies across a couple of fields on the left.

Routes

1  Cockchafer Crack 9m VS 5a 
The left hand crack. Quite pokey
2  The Dungeon E6 6a **
Start beneath the left hand side of the main overhang. Gain an obvious boss and move onto the overhanging wall, making awkward and airy moves to finish on good holds directly above.
3  The Hesitant Roofer E3 5c **
Start as for The Leaf moving up to the obvious roof. Make long reaches over the roof and an awkward move left to finish.
4  The Leaf 11m E1 5c 
The overhang between the cracks is climbed at the obvious break.
5  Cricket Crack 9m MVS  
The right hand crack.
6  Gamekeeper Crack 8m HVS 5a 
The crack on the right hand side of the crag.
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