Beanley

Approach

1.5km south of Eglingham on the Eglingham - Beanley road a permissive track leads across the moor. Follow this track for around 800 metres to where it swings rightwards, and then walk along the foot of the small scarp on the left to the crag.

Routes

The crag has 5 worthwile buttresses, wich are described from let to right.
Bouldering Buttress
This first buttress has several potential problems, only one has been recorded
1  Beanley Arete 3   (**new**)   The square cut arete at the far left hand end of the crag.
  Sitting Start    (**new**)
Unnamed Buttress
The buttress to the left of Georges Buttress
2  Lead Balloon 7m HVS 5c  (**new**)
Takes the right hand crack, to a good hold then move right onto the edge to an awkward green finish.
George's Buttress
The highest buttress, with two obvious cracklines
3  Marjorie s way 7m D  
Climb the wall 1m left of the left ar?.
4  Easy ar? 7m VD  
Climb the ar?.
5  The Ramp 7m VD  
Climb the left to right rising ramp with a mantel to finish.
6  Janet and George 7m HS 3c 
Climb the obvious flake to the right of The Ramp finishing as for The Ramp.
7  Shunt 7m VS 4c 
Climb the flake of Janet and George and finish up to the right up the scoop.
8  Gillian s Flute 7m HVS 4c 
Climb the thin leaning groove to the right of Shunt to the flutings on a slab. Ascend this and mantel to finish.
9  Smallest North Wall 7m VD  
Climb the north-facing wall up and round the corner from Gillian's Flute.
10  C.J.R. Crack 7m D  
The corner crack to the right of the last route.
Homestead Buttress
The rightmost buttress has an obvious slanting crack rising out of an alcove.
11  40 Years On 7m MVS 4c **
The slanting crack just right of the overhung section of the buttress is interesting and well protected.
12  Blondie 8m E1 5b **
Start at the foot of the twin runnels and move left with difficulty to a foothold at the edge of the wall and climb the wall to a testing finish.
© 2003 The Northumbrian Mountaineering Club Editing and website contact: John Dalrymple