From the A697 7km north of Longframlington, take the B6341 (Alnwick Rothbury) towards Alnwick. After 1.5km there is a layby on the right - Caller Boulders can be seen on the hillside above the road. The scattered rocks of Edlingham Crag can currently be seen in the remains of the wood left of the moor.

Routes

The rocks consist of a collection of disconnected butresses on the hillside above the turning to Edlingham. The hillside has recently been clear felled and is being left to naturally regenerate.
The rocks are arranged roughly in two tiers; the upper tier consists of some imposing looking buttresses, starting about half way along, and continuing to the Caller boulders; the lower tier consists of discontinuous buttresses which start above and to the left of the gate and run for two thirds the length of the hillside.

The lower tier is described first, then the upper tier. Within each tier, the buttresses and problems are described from left to right. Buttresses devoid of problems yet with potential are descibed, but those which the author considers as utter rubbish are omitted. Your milage may vary, feel free to e-mail details of anything you may think should be included to the link at the bottom right of this page.

Approach from the gate and follow old tractor tyre tracks to a path which lies below the rocks and runs parallel to the road. Upward progress is always easiest up the old tractor tracks, which were made by the gargantuan machine which ate up the forest. It's a bit of an art form avoiding the piles of dead trees when going between buttresses.

Above and to the left of the gate is a small buttress with a rounded arete on the left, an arete rising out of a cave and a crack and slab immediately right of that.

Immediately above the main roadside gate is a complex buttress with a white wall capped with an overhang at the bottom right and stepping up leftwards in a series of caves & overhangs.

To the right of white wall is a buttress with an obvious overhanging corner crack and a large cave to the right. Thanks to Chris Graham of northumberlandbouldering.co.uk for the descriptions and the cleaning!

2 Central Wall 3+ 5c Start in the heart-shaped dish for your right and one of a series of layaways with your left. Swing for a slopey jug and then the break.

Braveheart 6c

The difficult sit start in the centre of the wall. Stack your fingers into the pocket and spend an hour or two trying to get past the dish to finish up problem 2.

3 Deforestation 6 6b * From a sit start on the large sidepulls make a big lock for an edge up and right. Fight your way to the break and traverse left or jump down.

4 Coronary Bypass 6a+ 6c Right to left traverse. Start at the crack in the corner and traverse left past that bloody dish again. Frustrating.

5 Assagai 8m HVS 5a

The off width corner crack is probably a route. Bonus points for:
? Using an arm-bar.
? Laybacking it and not feeling at all guilty at the top.
? Getting 10 cams in it.
? Pulling on mud at the top.

6 East Side Story. 5 6c *** The exquisite centre of the East face is reminiscent of a poorer problem down South somewhere. Thin crimping leads to a good break 2 feet below the top. Take on the mud or finish as for Assegai.

7 Ostalgia 4+ 6b The wall left of the arete. Start in a mono and deep 2-fingered pocket. Make a strenuous move to get established on the wall and continue carefully up the left side of the arete.

Around to the right is a roof, some one and a half body-lengths long followed by a headwall which reaches 6m in height.

8 Bobs Cave 5 6c *** Sitting start at the left hand side of the cave, come out and round the lip to finish on a handhold on the arete. Classic

9 Springer?s Extension 5+ 6c *** Do Bob?s Cave but continue past the jug, mantelling to gain a standing position on it. Shake out and finish up the highball arete in
style.

10 Independence Day 6 6c The roof and headwall to the right. Start sitting at a jug on the back wall and make a big move to gain good holds in the roof. Gain a sharp hold on the lip and mantle over. Finish up the wall above with more ease.

11 Cave Headwall Right 4+ 5c The mantle and headwall right again isn?t quite as high. You can now try the roof from the back (if you are very very light).

12 Independant Link 6 6b Start in the dark back right hand corner of the cave and follow a line of flakes across the roof to join Independence Day just after its crux. Finish as for Independence Day.

Up and right from the car park, directly below and in line with Bob's Cave

Flake 99 Ungraded Sit start the lowest part of the flake and move up until moving out right to the first of two pinches. From there reach the top and top out. (FA Grade given V2)

The last buttress in this tier consists of a dirty, featureless vegetated wall ending in an overhanging arete at it's right hand end. Past this arete is a cracked wall and the buttress ends with a large pile of boulders.

1 Four 5+ 5b *** A fine problem up the left side of the arete. From a sitting start under the arete, at four strange gouge marks, gain the wall and finish straight up.

The next two buttresses actually lie below the lower tier.

An overhanging buttress in a hollow 200 metres up and right of the fence

Above and just right of Fox Holes is an obvious 5 metre slab.

A 5 metre high wall identified by some vein like protruding seams.

Just right of Veinous Wall, a small neb has a possible problem on it.

A large cave with a fierce crack coming out of it. Filled with logs at the moment.

A pair of boulders next to each other.

The last buttress in this tier is a slabby affair, split by a crack and with a square cut alcove at it's lower left hand side.

1 The Alcove 5+ 5a * Siting start on the block at the left hand end of the alcove, feet on the slab on the right. Traverse across to the wall and exit via the crack and slab to its left.

Nothing is recorded on the largest buttresses on the left of this tier. The first problems are on the Golden Oldies buttress, best approached via Caller Boulders.

A longish, clean cut buttress with an overhang at half height and capped by a boulder in the middle.

5 Walt Disney 5 5a * Sitting start just left of the tree stump at the right hand end of the overhang. Up and right to mantlehself the neb.

There are two buttresses beside the fence which are really a part of the group of boulders called "Caller Boulders" in the main printed Bouldering Guide. The right hand one is described there. Since they are clearly in the wood they are also descibed here!

1 Soil Avalanche 5+ 5b * The letmost buttress of this group is split by a deep crack. This problem takes the thin crack right of this to a tenuous finish. Make sure the top has been cleaned first!