From Knowesgate on the A696 or the Bellingham crossroads on the A68, drive to Sweethope Lough and park beside the cattle grid. Walk in a westerly direction for 100m along the road and follow the stone wall onto the moor to reach the North Buttress after a short 5 minute walk. The landowner has been contacted and has no objection to climbers gaining access to and climbing on the crags

Routes

1 Shooting Gallery 9m E1 5b *

Climb up the left edge of the overhung recess, stepping left to follow a vertical crackline until able to traverse right above the lip of the roof for 3m before moving up to the top.

2 Shot in the Dark 11m E3 5c ***

Spectacular and strenuous climbing with good protection (if you can hang on long enough to put it in). From the back of the overhung recess, climb up to the right to the first roof at 4m. Pull over it on the left, up to below the next roof and make a difficult move up to the final roof, level with a ledge with old birds nest. Move out to the right to gain flakes beneath the lip, just left of arete and reach for a good jug above the lip. Cut loose and pull into the shallow scoop above to gain the top.

3 High Velocity 7m HVS 5a **

A good climb up the right side of the arete and wall above. Start below the undercut arete split by a thin crack. Climb straight up via the crack to reach a pedestal at 5m. Move up left on the wall above past a letterbox slot, up into a shallow scoop to reach the top.1994

4 The Enforcer 10m VS 5a *

Start just right of the previous route below the left end of the 2m high roof. Pull over the roof and climb up onto the pedestal from the right hand side. Climb the wall up to the zig zag crack and follow it to the top.

5 Friendly Fire 10m VS 5a *

Start below the right end of the 2m high roof. Pull over the roof and climb up to the ledge at 4m, below the broken overlapping wall. Climb up to and follow a faint vertical crack line past a downward pointing block to reach the top.

6 Loose Cannon 10m S *

Start 2m right of the previous route at a broken crack. Climb up easily onto the large ledge. From the left hand end climb up the runnel and flutings above to below the overhang, climbing left to finish.

7 Magnum 10m VD *

Climb up onto the right end of the large ledge, and move up left past a flake to climb the right hand side of the block up to the overhang and pass it on its right hand side.

8 Lock 8m E1 5c *

Start right of the right end of the large ledge and 1m left of the short rib below the arete. Climb up to the left to gain a narrow ledge at 3m, below a short vertical crack with twin runnels above. Climb the steep wall up to the runnels to a ledge and pull over the short bulging wall above to reach the top.

9 Stock E1 5c **

Start 1m left of the short rib below the arete as for Lock. Climb up to a small ledge at 3m and follow the faint meandering crack line up the steep wall to a ledge and then more easily up the short wall above to the top.

10 Barrel 8m E1 5c *

Climb up the short rib to below the left side of the arete. Climb the arete on its left side up to the ledge and then more easily up to the top.

11 Naked Gun 7m VS 4c *

Start at the short rib below the arete. Climb up the right side of the arete to the ledge. Reach the top passing the small roof on its left side.

12 Bushwacker 6m S

Climb up the right side of the shallow scoop to the right of the arete past flutings to below a small roof. Pass the roof on its right side to reach the top.

13 Dum Dum 5m S

Start from the split block. Climb the wall to finish up the short crack at the top.

14 Sharpshooter 6m MS

Climb the good looking stepped crack.

15 Sitting Duck 8m HS

Start 5m left of the corner crack. Climb the wall just right of its edge, past a ledge at 3m up to a large ledge at 5m. Move up left below the roof and pull up onto the top using good jugs above the flutings.

16 Game Cock 8m VS 5a *

Start 3m left of the corner crack. Climb the wall up past a small overlap at 4m to reach a broken wall and finish up a short crack at the top.

17 Turkey Shoot 7m VD

Start 1m left of the corner crack. Climb up onto the ledge at 2m and up the wall above past a small roof to reach the top.

18 Glorious 12th 8m S

2m right of the corner crack, climb the wall up past the broken overlap onto a ledge at 5m. Climb up to the top, passing the roof on its left.

19 Victim of Circumstance 8m HVS 5a **

Start 3m right of the corner crack. Climb the wall to the top of a block at 4m. Pull up past a small roof and move right below the larger roof onto the blunt arete and pull up onto the top.

20 Endangered Species 8m E1 5b *

Climb up left of a shallow groove to below the blunt arete and make a difficult move up onto the wall right of the arete and up to the top on small holds.

21 Natural Selection 8m E1 5b **

Climb up the shallow groove to below the roof at 3m. Pull up right onto the centre of the wall above and climb the steep wall to the top.

22 Fair Game 7m HS

Climb up in the overhanging corner to finish up the crack at the top.

23 Prime Suspect 7m VS 5a *

Start 3m right of the overhung corner at a block on the ground. Step off the block and pull up onto the undercut wall. Climb straight up (resist moving left into the recess) to the top.

24 Above Suspicion 7m HS *

Climb up to below the hanging flake at 3m and pull round its right side to a ledge, then more easily to the top.

25 Hook 7m VS 5a *

Start 2m right of Above Suspicion. Climb the wall via a shallow horizontal pocket at 2m. Initially difficult with holds improving towards the top.

26 Line 6m MVS 4c *

Climb up past the left side of a ledge at 2m to finish up the wall left of a short vertical crack in the top of the crag.

27 Sinker 6m MS

Climb onto the ledge at 2m and up past a horizontal slot to finish to the right of the short vertical crack in the top of the wall

Approach

Routes