Garleigh (Gnarly) Crags

Approach

From Lordenshaws car park at NZ 053988, which is just off the minor road linking Simonside Forestry Commission carpark to the B6342. Leave teh car park, from where the rocks are clearly visible a mile to the NE and follow the roght of way NE for 50M, then turn right to the crag, crossing a fence.

Routes

Knobbly Wall
3 warm up problems can be found on Knobbly Wall which is split by a wide crack just below Front Boulder. The wall also has an easy low level traverse.
  4+     The left side of the wall
  5     SS Climb the centre of the left face
  4+     Climb the arete/face
  5     Low level traverse
Arnie Boulder
This is the long overhanging boulder at the top and on the extreme left hand end of the escarpment as you approach the crag. Not easily identifiable when the bracken is high in the summer.
  Predator 6c     SS 1m right of the extremem left end of the boulder. Traverse rightwards to finish with both hands on the crimp at the start of I'll Be Back
  Arne Saknussemm 7a     SS. Actually a lying down start with feet on the back. Using two poor pockets under the roof gain the lip dynamically, then use toe hooks to reach better holds above and the finish.