Park by a beech wood a few hundred metres east of Callaly. A path leads up through the woods, near the stone wall. Keep in the wood, avoiding the track which goes left onto forestry roads, and go over the top of the hill (Castle Hill), past a small quarry and down to a stile. There is a small sign for McArtneys cave just over the stile.

Routes

This buttress which has a prominent flake up its centre and is topped by a slab is reached by traversing the hillside leftwards for 50 metres from McArtneys Cave.

1 Iron Head 10m E2 6a (**new**)

Climb the face and ar? on the right side. Gain the slab and make delicate moves up here to finish as for Summers End.

2 Where do we go from Here? 10m E2 6a (**new**)

Starting on the ar?, pull onto the left face above a vegetated ledge using obvious holds. Use these and the ar? to gain the slab above. Finish as for Summers End.

3 Summers End 10m E1 5c

A good route. Climb the corner to the overhang, gain the flake awkwardly and quit it for the slab even more awkwardly. Follow the slab direct to the tree.

This superb buttress is approximately 100 metres left of McArtneys Cave. It has a jam crack to the right of a smooth overhanging pancake-covered wall, which is The Young.

4 Parental Guidance 7m E4 6b

The right ar?, which provides good, if slightly contrived climbing. Climb the ar? on the left making use of the hole in the centre of the wall. Avoid the temptation to bridge across the gully right of the ar?.

5 The Auld 8m HVS 5a **

The fine well protected crack.

6 The Young 9m E7 7a ***

A superb, very bold unprotected route. Start beneath the shield in the centre of the wall, left of the crack. Make difficult moves up the shield to gain a good hand hold, move left to two, two finger pockets which are used to gain a pancake above. Move back right to stand on the good hand hold and yet another pancake. A hard move enables a small crimp, a jug and then the top to be reached, if you are good enough.

7 Family Affair 10m E4 6b ***

A fine route up the left ar?. Gain the ledge with some difficulty. Climb the ar? which is hard to start. Use holds on the right wall until the slab can be gained using the fluting near the top.

8 Eaten Alive 7m E2 5c

9 Sleepless Nights 8m E3 6a *

The wall left of the ar?. Climb the ar? to the break and then up the wall on ironstone crimps.

10 Deet Crack 8m E2 6a **

The thin crack up the centre of the wall provides good well protected climbing.

Approach

Routes