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[[File:Boulder Worldcup 2017 Munich Finals 9529.jpg|thumb|right|280px|Climbers at the [[Bouldering at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup|World Cup 2017]] inspecting a [[Bouldering|boulder]] problem in order to figure out the beta.]]
'''Beta''' is climbing jargon that designates information about a climb.<ref name="rockandice">{{cite web| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180519194605/http://rockandice.com/how-to-climb/climbing-terminology/ | url=http://rockandice.com/how-to-climb/climbing-terminology/ | title=Climbing Terminology | publisher=Rock and Ice - Climbing Magazine | archive-date=May 19, 2018}}</ref><ref>{{cite web| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190502183254/https://betatogether.com/rock-climbing-terms-glossary/ | url=https://betatogether.com/rock-climbing-terms-glossary/ | archive-date=May 2, 2019| title=Rock Climbing Terms & Glossary | publisher=betatogether.com}}</ref> The complexity of beta can range from a small hint about a difficult section to a step-by-step instruction of the entire climb.<ref name="rockandice" /><ref name="ace">{{cite web| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171019085103/https://aceraft.com/2017/04/04/50-most-important-and-common-climbing-terms/ | archive-date=Oct 19, 2017 |url=https://aceraft.com/2017/04/04/50-most-important-and-common-climbing-terms/ | title=50 MOST IMPORTANT (AND COMMON) CLIMBING TERMS | publisher=aceraft.com}}</ref> In [[rock climbing]] this may include information about a [[Grade (climbing)|climb's difficulty]], [[Crux_(climbing)|crux]], style, length, quality of rock, ease to [[Climbing protection|protect]], required [[Climbing equipment|equipment]], and specific information about [[Climbing hold|hand or foot holds]]. For [[mountaineering]], beta may include information about the length and difficulty of the approach, availability of water on the climb and the approach, ease of exiting the route before completing it, descent information, perhaps even useful logistic information for climbs in foreign countries.{{citation needed|date=July 2019}} Sometimes a beta is also drawn, in the form of a ''beta-map''.<ref>{{cite web| url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-mental-training-for-climbers-2/ | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190218100513/https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-mental-training-for-climbers-2/ | archive-date=Feb 18, 2019 | publisher=climbing.com | title=Learn This: Mental Training for Climbers}}</ref><ref>{{cite book| title=Traditional Lead Climbing: A Rock Climber's Guide to Taking the Sharp End of the Rope | first=Heidi | last=Pesterfield | isbn=9780899974422 | publisher=Wilderness Press}}</ref>
It is common for climbers to have different beta for the same climb. In other words, more than one possible solution that can get the climber to the top. These can vary in terms of difficulty. It is not uncommon for climbs to get downgraded in their [[Grade (climbing)|difficulty rating]] once easier beta is discovered.<ref>{{cite web| url=https://www.climbing.com/people/inflating-grades-and-egos-a-climbing-difficulty-discussion/ | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170910145822/https://www.climbing.com/people/inflating-grades-and-egos-a-climbing-difficulty-discussion/ | archive-date=Sep 10, 2017 | title=Inflating Grades and Egos: A Climbing Difficulty Discussion | publisher=climbing.com}}</ref>
== Origin of the term ==
The original use of the term ''Beta'' in climbing is generally attributed to the late climber [[Jack Mileski]]. "Beta" was short for [[Betamax]], a reference to an old videotape format largely replaced by the [[VHS|VHS format]].<ref name="ace" /> According to some sources Mileski would record himself on tape while completing routes and then share these tapes with friends. According to other sources it was actually a play on words, as Mileski would often ask, "you want the beta, Max?".<ref>{{cite web| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090422010437/http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/other.htm | url=http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/other.htm | title= Tradgirl Climbing FAQ | archive-date=Apr 22, 2009}}</ref>
==References==
{{reflist}}
==External links==
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20180519194605/http://rockandice.com/how-to-climb/climbing-terminology/ Rock and Ice - Climbing Terminology]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20090422010437/http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/other.htm Tradgirl Climbing FAQ]
[[Category:Climbing]]
'''Beta''' is climbing jargon that designates information about a climb.<ref name="rockandice">{{cite web| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180519194605/http://rockandice.com/how-to-climb/climbing-terminology/ | url=http://rockandice.com/how-to-climb/climbing-terminology/ | title=Climbing Terminology | publisher=Rock and Ice - Climbing Magazine | archive-date=May 19, 2018}}</ref><ref>{{cite web| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190502183254/https://betatogether.com/rock-climbing-terms-glossary/ | url=https://betatogether.com/rock-climbing-terms-glossary/ | archive-date=May 2, 2019| title=Rock Climbing Terms & Glossary | publisher=betatogether.com}}</ref> The complexity of beta can range from a small hint about a difficult section to a step-by-step instruction of the entire climb.<ref name="rockandice" /><ref name="ace">{{cite web| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171019085103/https://aceraft.com/2017/04/04/50-most-important-and-common-climbing-terms/ | archive-date=Oct 19, 2017 |url=https://aceraft.com/2017/04/04/50-most-important-and-common-climbing-terms/ | title=50 MOST IMPORTANT (AND COMMON) CLIMBING TERMS | publisher=aceraft.com}}</ref> In [[rock climbing]] this may include information about a [[Grade (climbing)|climb's difficulty]], [[Crux_(climbing)|crux]], style, length, quality of rock, ease to [[Climbing protection|protect]], required [[Climbing equipment|equipment]], and specific information about [[Climbing hold|hand or foot holds]]. For [[mountaineering]], beta may include information about the length and difficulty of the approach, availability of water on the climb and the approach, ease of exiting the route before completing it, descent information, perhaps even useful logistic information for climbs in foreign countries.{{citation needed|date=July 2019}} Sometimes a beta is also drawn, in the form of a ''beta-map''.<ref>{{cite web| url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-mental-training-for-climbers-2/ | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190218100513/https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-mental-training-for-climbers-2/ | archive-date=Feb 18, 2019 | publisher=climbing.com | title=Learn This: Mental Training for Climbers}}</ref><ref>{{cite book| title=Traditional Lead Climbing: A Rock Climber's Guide to Taking the Sharp End of the Rope | first=Heidi | last=Pesterfield | isbn=9780899974422 | publisher=Wilderness Press}}</ref>
It is common for climbers to have different beta for the same climb. In other words, more than one possible solution that can get the climber to the top. These can vary in terms of difficulty. It is not uncommon for climbs to get downgraded in their [[Grade (climbing)|difficulty rating]] once easier beta is discovered.<ref>{{cite web| url=https://www.climbing.com/people/inflating-grades-and-egos-a-climbing-difficulty-discussion/ | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170910145822/https://www.climbing.com/people/inflating-grades-and-egos-a-climbing-difficulty-discussion/ | archive-date=Sep 10, 2017 | title=Inflating Grades and Egos: A Climbing Difficulty Discussion | publisher=climbing.com}}</ref>
== Origin of the term ==
The original use of the term ''Beta'' in climbing is generally attributed to the late climber [[Jack Mileski]]. "Beta" was short for [[Betamax]], a reference to an old videotape format largely replaced by the [[VHS|VHS format]].<ref name="ace" /> According to some sources Mileski would record himself on tape while completing routes and then share these tapes with friends. According to other sources it was actually a play on words, as Mileski would often ask, "you want the beta, Max?".<ref>{{cite web| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090422010437/http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/other.htm | url=http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/other.htm | title= Tradgirl Climbing FAQ | archive-date=Apr 22, 2009}}</ref>
==References==
{{reflist}}
==External links==
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20180519194605/http://rockandice.com/how-to-climb/climbing-terminology/ Rock and Ice - Climbing Terminology]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20090422010437/http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/other.htm Tradgirl Climbing FAQ]
[[Category:Climbing]]