Kyloe in

Grid Ref: NU045388   Aspect: S   Routes: 110   Problems: 1   Max Length: 22   Average Length: 9

Altitude: 154 mtrs   Walk in: 15 mins   Route quality: ***   Bouldering quality: ***

The crag is reached easily from the A1 8 kilometres north of Belford. Turn west and follow the B6353 for 3 kilometres towards Lowick. At the crossroads turn due south and continue past, the parking for Kyloe Crag for 800 metres where a gated forest road leads into the woods. Cars must be left on the main road. Follow the forest road for about 500 metres to a junction with a red 'WS' sign, pointing left. Pass to the right of the sign and follow the track straight on for 300 metres, turning right at a crossroads with a red 'WS 1' sign, also pointing left. The rocks soon appear to the left of the track (about 15 minutes). The woods are privately owned and there is no right of way. Care should be taken not to obstruct the gate.

General

This fine crag is hidden away in the centre of the woods and the steep, solid sandstone provides many splendid and enticing lines. The very flora which gives the crag its unique atmosphere, however, does encroach on the finishes of many of the climbs and some cleaning prior to an ascent may be necessary, or even recommended. This wooded atmosphere certainly does not detract from the climbing which is usually very technical and can vary from delicate to strenuous.

Rock

Fell Sandstone Carboniferous, Dinantian

Excellent

Access issues

Shooting takes place in this woodland,check at the gate for any signs warning of this.Keep the gate clear at all times, so that a tractor and trailer can freely turn in from the road. Park off the tarmac and on one side of the road only. A notice from the woodland management company has been posted on the gate. It reads: "Deerstalking takes place within this woodland on a regular basis as part of ongoing forestry management activity. When the stalker is onsite a warning notice will be erected here and for your own safety access to the woodland will be prohibited."

History

Hidden deep in a forest Kyloe in the Wood was only discovered in the sixties, the earliest recorded route being Zed Climb by Frank Montgomery in 1966. Three years later, in January, the very good lines of Fluted Crack and Crack of Gloom were climbed by Allan Austin with Dave Miller and Dave Roberts respectively. When the 1971 guide was published, however, forty routes were recorded the efforts of Hugh Banner, John Earl, John Hiron, Geoff Jackson, Dennis Lee, Malcolm Lowerson, Ken McDonald and Jim Patchett. Notable routes climbed during this period were The Elf, The Harp, Thin Hand Special (since mistakenly called Thin Finger Special) and The Crucifix, the latter two routes by Hugh Banner showing local climbers the niceties of jamming technique. Dennis Lee was responsible for writing up and renaming many of the climbs. The 1976 supplement recorded a number of less significant new climbs although Bob Hutchinson and John Earl had added Badfinger, the first of the overhanging, fingery routes. Following the 1976 supplement routes fell thick and fast. The Pearler, Entertainer and Red Rum fell to Hutchinson and Earl (Earl leading the first one) while Paul Stewart fell in with Bad Company, later given an independent finish by Earl, and Sieve Blake bouldered out Elf Direct. Scottish invader, Dave 'Cubby' Cuthbertson raised bouldering standards with the free ascent of Monty Python's Flying Circus although introducing chalk for the first time on a new route in the county. In 1978, Hutchinson and Earl invited all to High T, a very fine addition to the crag. In the build up to the 1979 guide, Paul Stewart climbed Trouble Shooter whilst Steve Blake claimed the first ascent of Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy. The fine Bobby Dazzler wall was initially developed by Bob Hutchinson and John Earl and completed by Paul Stewart and Bob Smith. It was 1981 before any further routes of significance were added with John Earl digging out Bad News, Bob Smith on the hard stuff with Hard Liquor and Smith, Earl and lan Kyle completing Jocks and Geordies, the initial crack having been climbed by Dave Cuthbertson and Murray Hamilton. The crag lay fallow until late 1986 when Tim Gallagher terrified himself with the fine lead of High Society an often eyed line. Bob Smith swiftly responded with the Upper Crust, another fine addition to the High T wall.