Hepburn

Grid Ref: NU075247   Aspect: W   Routes: 4   Max Length: 10   Average Length: 2

Altitude: 200 mtrs   Walk in: 15 mins   Bouldering quality: *

Matt climbing the superb Photo Opportunity Arete

General

Hepburn Woods is an area of forested hillside near Chillingham, generally facing west and containing lots of boulders and short buttresses scattered around the edge of the escarpment ond down the hillside.

Approach

Take the B6346 Alnwick to Chatton road. About 1km S. of Chillingham village turn east for Hepburn. The road follows the south wall of Chillingham castle grounds. Go through the farm turning sharp left then ight, and stop at a Forest Enterprise car park, at the start of a steep hill, park on the right. For the bouldering: You will see the edge and boulders on the skyline as you approach the farm. For the main area follow the track through the gate for 100m, and follow a path on the left with a handrail up through the trees. Five minutes if you are slow. The main path reaches the edge at in the middle of the problems. For ‘Warm Up’ boulder follow the orange arrows through the picnic meadow, through the trees and turn left l20m after the stile. Two minutes for the infirm. For the routes: Take the path to the plateau. On the right a depression/small valley leads off and down, follow it for 20 metres, cross it and follow a faint path near the edge of another small drop. After about 125 metres you come to a big oak tree, pass it and drop down to the right for 30 metres to an old fence. This is just back from the top of the crag. Gain the foot of the crag on the right facing out.

Rock

Fell Sandstone Carboniferous, Dinantian

The rock is solid and reliable but tends to get dirty in some parts.

Routes/Bouldering

Routes:

Three micro routes have been recorded

Problems:

This is an excellent bouldering area. There are 64 problems listed in the Northumberland Bouldering Guide and there is potential for many more, particularly in the easier grades. Some of the existing problems are over awful landings and are quite high, so take care.

History

The area was developed in the late 1990s by the NMC in preparation for the Northumberland Bouldering Guide, largely by Alec Burns.