Northumbrian Climbing Guide |
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Lemmington Woods
The best buttress, Woodmans Wall, is the obvious wall 3 metres from the line in a clearing. To reach this point you have walked past The Bonus Boulder, which is a prow lying 5 metres to the left of the line just past the forestry road junction.
The other buttresses are out of sight in the trees just above and 50 metres right of Woodmans Wall, and consist of a freaky green slab which suddenly appears behind the trees and then a series of rounded nebs along the line of the scarp.
The other buttresses are out of sight in the trees just above and 50 metres right of Woodmans Wall, and consist of a freaky green slab which suddenly appears behind the trees and then a series of rounded nebs along the line of the scarp.
Bonus Boulder
The prow has 3 good problems
1 Added Bonus 3 6a
Sitting start at the left end of the cave.
2 Bobs yer Uncle 4+ 6b **
Sitting start in the centre of the cave, up via crimps left of the crack.
3 Prowling Jugs 4+ 5a **
Sitting start at the right hand end of the cave, straight over the prow on good holds.
Woodmans Wall
The obvious wall with two cracks
1 Punishment Crack 5b
Sitting start in the cave at the foot of the crack, jam out and round the bulge - avoiding the birch.
2 Punishment Arete 5 6c **
The arete and wall right of Punishment Crack from a sitting start in the cave under the crack.
3 Squeeze my Lemming 3 6a *
The wall just left of the easy crack from a sitting start.
4 Easy Crack 4 4a **
The deep crack provides a good easy problem.
5 The Indescribable Arete 4 6b
The arete right of the deep crack from a sitting start.
6 The Dynast 3+ 6b 
The flakes right of the deep crack, from a sitting start.
The flakes right of the deep crack, from a sitting start.7 Migration 5 6b **
A traverse from the cave at the foot of Punishment Crack, keeping very low under the flakes of problem 6, and rising to finish at the neb on the far right of the wall.
Where Lemmings Dare 4+ 6b (**new**)
Takes the roof on the right side of the buttress from a sit start, to end where the traverse ends
Upper Crag
100 metres past Woodmans Wall and slightly uphill is the Green Slab, which is bounded on the right by a large overhung bay of clean rock. The flakes on the right wall provide a poor route of around VD, the finish is usually slimy.
The last problem is on the rounded neb 15 metres right of this.
The last problem is on the rounded neb 15 metres right of this.
1 Middle Neb 4+ 5b *
The neb is climbed at its right hand side via good holds from a sitting start