Northumbrian Climbing Guide

 
 
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West Buttress
West Buttress lies on the right of the Second Pinnacle and is bounded on the left by the Backdoor.
Trad  Direct finish  6b ***New
Climb through the slopers to give Childhoods End a spectacular and hard direct finish.
Graeme Read (2009)
Trad  Lee Van Cleef 11m E4 5c New
A villainous direct up the centre of the hanging Wild West Slab, starting in the niche where Redskin trends left. Committing, long reaches to poor pockets and ripples gain the slab and lead to the sanctuary of the Buckskin traverse. Continue direct. Quickdraws not required for this shootout.
Simon Litchfield, Graeme Read (22 June 2013)
Capstan Rock
Right of Zig Zag Slab is a boulder strewn heather slope. Capstan Rock is set back at the top of the slope and on the short wall behind and left of it, is a crack of Very Difficult standard. The next route takes the wall left of the groove/crack immediately behind the Capstan.
Trad  High Plains Drifter 8m E5 6a **New
A good, hard and unprotected eliminate that climbs directly up the steep wall between Funeral for a Friend and Ben's Wall. Climb directly to the ledge then continue straight up the wall which proves to be very sustained.
Graeme Read (25 June 2013)
Trad  Bens Wall 8m E4 5c New
Start as for The Convict. Pull on to the flake and climb the wall direct via some long reaches. Unprotected where it matters. A good direct line which is probably 6a for the short.
Graeme Read, Simon Litchfield (11 June 2013)