Northumbrian Climbing Guide

 
 
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West Buttress
Trad1  Spent Force 8m HVS 5b New
The pod and thin crack left of Old Ash Crack is climbed to an awkward move right. Continue more easily over the bulge above. It is also possible to move left at the top of the crack and bridge out to a pedestal (VS 5a and not as good).
SJH Reid, C King (2 November 2006)
Central Buttress
Trad16  Pedestal and Crack Climb 10m S  New
Climb flakes up the front of the pedestal right of Patties Route to a vegetated ledge. Finish up the thin crack in the wall on the left, just right of the crack of Patties Route.
SJH Reid, C King (2 November 2006)
Far East Buttress
To the right of East Buttress is a buttress with a prominent juggy arete up the front.
Trad26  Jugged Air 8m VD  New
Avoid the huge roof at the start by stepping onto it from the left, then climb the arete on jugs.
SJH Reid, C King (2 November 2006)
Trad27  Gordon Bennett 8m MVS 4c New
The wall to the right of the arete of Jugged Air. Start at the big overhang at the base of the buttress. Climb a short groove to the right of the roof to a terrace and small square cave just right of Jugged Air. Starting left of the cave, climb the wall slightly rightwards to a flake on the lip of the bulge above and use this to gain holds above and so the top. A nice wee pitch.
SJH Reid, S Baxendale (1 February 2007)
Trad  Gordon Bennett - RH variation 8m  4b New
As for Gordon Bennett to the square cave, but climb the wall right of the cave to the bulge, then move right and awkwardly up a short right-facing groove. Not as good
SJH Reid, S Baxendale (1 February 2007)
Far Far East Buttress
The furthest right Buttress has a huge roof overhanging a large free standing flake.
Trad28  Chimney and Roof Climb 7m VD  New
Climb a chimney to gain the top of the flake and step onto the slab under the roof which is avoided on the left via a vegetated groove ? pretty dire.
SJH Reid, C King (2 November 2006)
Trad29  Heave Ho! 5m VS 4c New
Short but spectacular. Gain a precarious standing position on the flake from the right and so reach a hold on the lip of the roof. Heave ho!
C King, SJH Reid (2 November 2006)