Paddaburn

Approach

The crag is approached from Gilsland (2 kilometres from Greenhead on the A69). Follow the Spadeadam road north for 2 kilometres to Moscow Farm and turn right onto a good but narrow road. Follow this road through forests and across open moorland for 10 kilometres passing through a gate and a shallow ford at Butterbum. The tarmac ends at a wooden bridge about 700 metres before Chumsike Lodge. It is possible to obtain permission from the Forestry Commission to continue by car almost to the foot of the crag. Those without permission can park between the bridge and the forest gate. Walk through the gate and follow the road round to the left to reach Churnsike Lodge. Take the left fork here and continue past a ruined barn on the left to reach a second junction. Turn right and continue for a further 1.2 kilometres ignoring a junction on the right after 1 kilometre to reach a dip in the road over a stream. The crag is just visible on the right through the trees and is reached by following the stream. From Chumsike Lodge allow 5-6 minutes from the picnic area by following the red and orange waymarked tracks.

Routes

First Wall
The first outcrop of rock at the westem end of the crag, terminated on its right by a chimney full of jammed blocks.
1  Piute 6m S  
Start 2 metres right of the left hand end of the wall, climb diagonally right via the shallow recess finishing just right of the tiny overhang.
2  Padda Wall 5m HS 4b 
A pleasant wall climb on superb rock. Start at the twin cracks 1/2 metres left of the ar?. Climb the wall by the line of least resistance.
3  Oregon Trail 5m MS  *
Climb the ar? at the right boundary of first wall.
  Padda Chimney 5m D   (**new**)
The chimney separating First and Second Walls. Climb over the chockstones then bridge up the outside of the chimney.
  The Secret Six 5m VS 4c  (**new**)
The wall immediately right of Padda Chimney is climbed via a block in a pod - no bridging!
Second Wall
This is set back from First wall and extends to a large cave.
4  Whoops 6m MVS 4b 
Start at the boulder that leans against the foot of the wall, climb straight up on good holds.
5  Bald Eagle 6m HS 4b 
Start at the right hand side of a small roof/overlap 1 metre above ground level, trend rightways using undercuts to an ear shaped flake and scoop. Climb directly up the wall to finish. Can be climbed directly above roof at 5b.
6  Sioux Hare 5m VD  
Climb the short hand-width crack 5 metres left of the cave and continue up the wider cleft above.
7  Rooster Cogburn 6m D  
Climb the ar? that forms the left edge of the cave and continue up the juggy wall above.
  Cave Climb 5m VD  
Climb up into the cave that forms the junction between Second and Main Walls, and chimney up the groove to the top.
Main Wall
Extends rightwards for 10 metres to the easy angled ar? and is distinguished by the square shaped roof at two thirds height.
8  Creak 5m D  
Climb the rightward slanting crack, 1 metre right of the cave.
9  Almighty Voice,The Last Cree Warrior 9m (no adj grade) 5b 
Climb directly up the centre of the wall between the cave and the prominent stepped corner, on small, but positive holds.
10  The Funnel 9m VS 5a 
The prominent stepped corner is ascended by strenuous lay backing and wide bridging.
11  Sike Wall 9m HVS 5b* (no adj grade)  
Climbs the prominent roof by means of the large crescent shaped flake crack. Start at the indistinct rib below the left hand end of the roof.
The area from Almighty Voice to Churnsike Crack is dirty and overgrown
12  Red Cloud 9m HVS 5b 
Start 2 metres right of Sike Wall. Climb the smooth wall direct to a break in the widest part of the overlap. Finish through this.
13  Lone Ranger 9m HVS 5b 
Follow Red Cloud to finish up a short groove at the right end of the overlap.
14  Churnsike Crack 9m S  
The obvious steep bulging crack 1 metre right of the square roof becomes easier as one gains height.
15  Witch Hunt 8m HVS 5b* (no adj grade)  
Climb the steep wall on small holds 1 metre right of Churnsike Crack.
16  Ar? Direct 8m HS  
The ar? at the right hand end of main wall.
Boulder Slab
The slab to the right and at an angle to Main Wall. It lies between the ar? and the easy cleft which has flakes jammed in its upper part.
17  Chisholm Trail 9m D  
Climb the centre of the slab, which steepens near the top.
Third Wall
Extends from the easy angled slab to the overhanging nose above a ledge on which grows two rowan trees.
18  Leaning Crack 8m S  
The right trending crackline I metre right of the corner.
19  The Niggler 8m MVS 4b 
Start 2 metres left of the rotten tree and attempt to gain a small ledge: Continue with greater certainty to the top.
20  Vital Signs 9m VS 5b** funny grade yes n (no adj grade)  
A good wall climb. Start 1 metre right of the thin birch growing on the face. Climb a very thin crack with difficulty to a good jug. The steep wall above is an excellent finish.
21  Pipe of Peace 10m MVS 4c** (no adj grade)  
Start as for Vital Signs. Instead of climbing the thin crack, follow the overlap rightwards until some fingery moves lead to better holds. Swing across the wall on the left to gain the jug of Vital Signs and finish as for that route.
22  Padda Stairs 8m D  
Start at the left hand end of the ledge with the two Birch trees and follow the huge steps to the top.
  Born Again 8m HS   (**new**)
Squirm up the obvious slippery hairy cleft separating Third and Fourth Walls, to pop out through the fringe at the top. More fun than it sounds!
Fourth Wall
This extends from the birches to the isolated pinnacle.
23  Forked Tongue 8m MS  *
An interesting climb. Start 2 metres right of the two birches at the foot of the crack and groove. Climb the lower cracks and continue straight up, or step right into the groove to finish.
24  Tomahawk 5m HS  
Climb the shallow groove 2 metres right of the crack and groove of Forked Tongue.
25  Hiding to Nothing 8m HVS 4c* (no adj grade)  
Climb the fine ar?, which bounds the right hand end of the Fourth Wall. The finish is intimidating.
Padda Tower
The isolated pinnacle.
26  The Tower Crack 6m M  
Start in the gully on the left hand side of the pinnacle, climb the crack.
27  Teton 6m VD  
The wall and ar? on the left hand side of the tower.
28  Ojibwa 6m MS  
The ar? and wall on the right hand side of the tower.
29  The Tower Ordinary 5m Easy (no adj grade)  
Start below a short crack on the west side of the Tower where it abuts against the fellside. Climb a short crack onto a pedestal, a pull up gains the summit.
The Fifth and Sixth Walls are respectively 50 and 60 metres east of Padda Tower. Fifth Wall has a band of overhangs at 1.5 metres up; Sixth Wall has a band of overhangs at 2 metres.
The Playground
This is the name given to the 50m stretch of small outcrops and boulders between Padda Tower and the next continuous rock; Fifth Wall. One minor route is described in this area;
30  Nasty Knobbles 5m S  
Starts between a prominent flake and a vegetated crack on the steep wall 10 metres right of the Tower. Climb directly up the steep wall on small holds to finish at a pointed block.
Fifth Wall
The steep wall to the right of the Playground has in its centre a huge detached block in a dark corner. The wall to the left of this corner has an overhang at chest height, whilst the wall to the right of this corner has a prominent jutting neb low down.
31  One-Eyed Jack 8m VS 4c* (no adj grade)  
A very pleasant climb but with no protection. Start at the left-hand end of the wall below a steep shallow scoop. Climb over a small overlap and finish up the steep, shallow scoop.
32  Muleskinner 8m D  
Start at the right-hand crack of the huge detached block in the corner. Climb the crack and exit on the right.
33  The Nebbish 7m MVS 5b should this be HVS (no adj grade)  
Starts below the neb. Pull up on good holds and make a hard move to stand on them. Climb up to and out of a sentry-box.
Sixth Wall
This is a further 12 metres to the right of Fifth Wall. It consists of a line of walls and buttresses ranging in height from 5-7 metres. Sixth Wall is divided into two halves by a gully. To the left of the gully is a smooth left-slanting groove and beyond this to the left a barrier of overhangs at head height guard the wall. To the right of the gully is a false wall leaning against the foot of the crag. The wall then ends in a jutting tooth-like ar? on the right.
34  Little Groove 5m (no adj grade) 4c 
Climb the left-slanting, smooth groove.
35  Tusk 7m MVS 4c 
Climb the jutting tooth-like ar?.
Seventh Wall
This is the very steep wall of bubbly rock immediately right of the tooth-like ar?. Seventh Wall terminates in a very deep recessed corner, which has a fist-wide crack in the angle.
The steep overhanging wall can be climbed directly, in the middle at 5b and to the left of Hiawatha at 6a, care should be taken as the extrusions are very brittle.
36  Little Squawk 6m VS 5a 
A leftwards trending ramp leads to the top of the crag. Start 2 metres to the left of the ramp and climb wall directly to jugs on overhanging, awkward finish.
37  Hiawatha 6m HVS 5a** (no adj grade)  
An excellent steep climb up the obvious flake crack. Attack the crack by strenuous laybacking, then retreat from the crack by bridging to a rounded finish. The protection is good.
38  Papoose 6m MS  
Starts in the deep comer and climbs the wall on the right to a good flake and then the top.