Hard Heugh

Approach

The easiest route is to approach from the western side. From the Thropton - Whittingham road, 1 km north of Cartington Farm, a barely metalled road leads off rightwards, through a gate, past a large wooden hut and towards Cartington Hill. Park somewhere sensible, around where the track goes left and through another gate onto an open field. From here a grassy path goes through the reeds and onto the shoulder of the hillside. disappearing into deep heather and bracken. Carry on through this to a stone wall and follow this up to the crag. There are two other longer routes. The stone wall described above can be reached via a right of way from Callaly. This latter route has the advantage of taking you past the far superior Maiden Chambers, but involves a long thrash across the heather. Finally, mountain bikers can follow the escarpment from Coe Crag, past Long Crag and on to Hard Heugh.

Routes

These two problems face east, level with the top of the crag. They both start from the same holds which are big chicken head/knobs
  Isolation Years 6a     Start at the chickenheads and go straight to the top.
  Somber Smile 6a     Starts from the same holds but reach out left to a flake. Make a high step and reach the top.
  No More Tears. 9m E1 6a 
The route is at the southern end of the crag, tucked into a corner. it starts on a flat rock below a short roof and big ledge. Reach up left to a good slot in the roof and pull round to good iron deposit type holds. Bust right to a good hold. Move left to the obvious tufa/flake. Twist into the flake and reach up left to a small iron deposit hold, cross over into a smaller iron deposit which enables you to reach a good flake. A high step and rock over gains a good chicken head and the break. Move back right and up to pull over the top.