When approaching the Wanneys from the north on the forestry track, the crag can be seen on the right. Keep to the track and this swings round above the crag. It is a little faster to approach along this same track from the A68, but the parking is a bit dodgy.
The routes are described from left to right
The first big buttress has a huge poised boulder on top and contains three cracks.
The large bay, obviously quarried. It is the highest section of the crag.
The next buttress to the west contains a recess. This can be climbed by the left crack or up the narrow wall both Mild Very Severe. Further west again is a buttress with two easy chimneys. The wall at the right end is Very Difficult.
Beyond that, the next buttress has an overhang atop it. The bulging left wall is Severe and the right end past the overhang is Very Difficult.
A little further west is a buttress with a slab at the foot, capped by an overhang and a fine cracked arete above. There is a peg at the top for belaying.
The next buttress has a quarried section and the rock is very suspect.
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