Northumbrian Climbing Guide

 
 
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Wolf
The routes on this small crag have been squeezed in a bit, some may say too much. However, this gives enough routes for a good evening outing in the lower grades. It is also an excellent venue for learning to lead.

The climbs are described right to left.
Prow Buttress
The small prow shaped buttress 5 metres high.
1  Snap Shot 5m VS 5a 
Climb the right wall via the pockets at half height finishing right using the slot above the horizontal break.
2  Freeze Frame 5m VS 5a 
Climb the arete.
3  Still Motion 4m VS 4c 
Climb the left wall via the pockets at half height
Teabag Buttress
The next buttress with 5m high walls leading to a deep gully, which provides an easy way down.
4  Teabag 4m MVS 4c 
Start 2m right of the vertical crack. Climb up moving right onto the ledge below the overlap. Move round and up the right side of the arete.
5  Drop Scone 5m VS 5a 
Start as for the previous route but climb straight up over the overlap and continue to the top of the wall.
6  String Bean 5m S  
Climb the crack.
Gordon Thompson
7  Angel Cake 5m HVS 5b 
Climb the wall lm left of the vertical crack.
8  Cucumber Sandwich 5m HVS 5b 
Squeezed in between the previous route and the vertical crack with large chock stone in its lower half. Climb the wall 1m right of the vertical crack directly to the top
9  Peapod 5m VD  
Climb the crack with the large block in its lower half.
Family Outing Buttress
The buttress on the left of the deep gully.
10  Dandelion 4m VS 4c  
Climb the wall with ledge at half height near its right edge
11  Burdock 4m VS 4c 
Climb the wall with ledge at half height near its left edge from its undercut base
12  Vimto 5m VS 5a 
Start on the left side of the undercut corner and make a difficult move to reach the ledge Continue up the arete on its left side to the top
13  Family Outing 8m VD  
Start in the small overhung corner 3m left of the undercut ar? (name on rock) Follow the stepped crack above, leading to the diagonal cleft and the top
Gordon Thompson
14  Picnic 4m VS 4c  Climber Chris Westerback
Start 1m left of the small overhung corner Climb the wall and follow the faint vertical crack line above leading to the short vertical slot at the top
15  Summer Holiday 4m VS 4c 
Start 2m left of the small overhung corner Climb up to the ledge and up the wall above on the left of the faint vertical crack line, finishing left of the short vertical slot at the top
16  Day Away 4m VS 4c 
Climb the narrow wall left of the gully. Continue up past the large block and finish up the right side of the arete.
17  Midsummer Madness 5m HVS 5b 
Climb the edge of the small crescent shaped corner to the left end of the large block and finish up the left side of the arete.
18  Spring Fever 5m VS 5a 
Climb up the centre of the wall left of the small crescent shaped corner to the horizontal break and up the headwall via a small flake
19  Green Bean 7m D  
Climb the green corner crack
20  Fruit Salad 7m VD  
Climb the crack 1m left of the green corner
21  Jelly and Cream 7m S  
Above the vertical cleft in the center of the foot of the wall, make a difficult move up to holds just left of the little roof and finish direct.
22  Crusty Loaf 5m HVS 5b 
Climb the wall right of the thin vertical crack up to the horizontal break below the bulging headwall and surmount the right end with difficulty
23  Bread knife 7m S  
Climb the central crack line up to and through the headwall at the top
Gordon Thompson
24  Bread Bun 4m MVS 4c 
Climb the wall left of the central crack, past the horizontal break to the top.
Little Layback Buttress
The small buttress with a central crack with jammed blocks in its top half.
25  Small Matter 6m S  
Climb the stepped cracks right of the central crack, up to the ledge and finish up the top wall using the narrow corner on the right
26  Little Layback 6m VD  
Start where name is etched on rock and climb the central crack with jammed blocks
Gordon Thompson
27  Trivial Pursuit 5m E1 5c 
Climb the wall left of the central crack, moving to the left edge to finish with difficulty up on to the sloping top.
East Buttress
This buttress has a large overhang at half height, on the right of a crack and chimney, with a wall in the left split by a horizontal crack at half height.
28  Adagio 4m VS 4c 
Climb the wall on the right of the overhang up its centre past the horizontal break at half height to the top
29  High Note 4m VS 4c 
Climb the wall below the right end of the overhang on the right of the Y crack up to and around the right end of the roof, moving back onto the left of the arete to reach the top
30  Y Direct 5m E2 5c  (**new**) 
Climb the Y crack and finish over the overhang and up the wall above.
Simon Litchfield (February 2008)
31  Sharp Practice 6m E4 6a 
Climb the wall on the left of the Y crack to the roof Pull up onto the wall above using poor chicken heads and finish directly to the top
32  Lost Chord 7m D  
Climb the central crack and chimney
33  Perfect Pitch 7m D  
Climb up the centre of the slab left of the central crack and chimney, past the horizontal crack, keeping left on the top wall to .
34  Red Sky 4m VS 4c 
Climb the right wall lm left of its right edge, up to the ledge and finish up the right ar?
Far East Buttress
The buttress is split by a central crack with the right wall split by a ledge at half height and with a wall and overhang on the left of the crack.
35  Shepherd's Warning 4m VS 4c 
Climb up the centre of the right wall via the initial vertical crack, past the ledge and up the slab and wall to the top
36  Fading Light 8m D  
Climb the central crack
37  Indian Summer 8m E1 5c  (**new**)
Start 1m left of Summers End and use a sharp crimp to gain the upper break. Make a very long reach to gain a poor hold and the top, resisting the temptation to use (and escape via) the left arete.
Simon Litchfield (16 July 2008)
38  Summer's End 8m 5m S 5a 
Climb the left wall 2m left of the central crack, up over the overlap and up past the right end of the overhang to finish up the shallow scooped wall above