Northumbrian Climbing Guide

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1  Bizzle Chimney VD  
The obvious chimney is a classic of its type. Big boots are obligatory.
Tarver, Glover (5 March 1899)
(This ascent was reported in SMC journal. The route was originally called "North Eastern Chimney" and was descrined as the "only well define climb on the range")
Winter Routes
  The Waterfall 30m I 1 
The waterfall, obviously.
  Walken The Park III/IV (4) III    (**new**)
A left to right rising traverse. A steep start 10m left of Dogs of War gains a right trending ramp. Follow this easily to the groove of Dogs of War. Step airily right across the void to a fitting finale up the groove just right.
Simon Litchfield, James Ibbertson (19 January 2013)
(With Jim Stanton)
  Direct Start VI    (**new**)
A bold and steep direct start to Walken the Park taking the faint right facing corner in the middle of the buttress. Starting mid-way between Walken… and Dogs of War a mildly insecure start gains turf, the bottom of the groove and gear. Climb the corner on good turf, frozen moss and ice to join Walken… when good gear is all but a distant memory.
Simon Litchfield (19 January 2013)
  Dogs of War 26m VI 7 
The route follows an impressive corner just left of the obvious undercut section in the middle of the front face. The route is both technical and strenuous. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty until below the overhang. Hard moves left lead to a ledge and a rest. The overhanging upper crack will test your belief in your own immortality, with the crux where it should be at the top in a very exposed position. The belay totally relies on the turf above the route being hard frozen, as this is the only possible belay, warthogs essential.
Tim Catterall, Richard Pow (7 February 2003)
(The route was climbed on sight with no prior inspection in true NMC style.)
  Bizzle Constrictor VI 6 
The route climbs the impressive deep cut chimney on the right side of the crag. The route requires a good amount of prolonged snowfall and hard frosts to come into condition. Enter the chimney and work your way to the back of the dark hole, avoiding being swallowed by the jaws of the beast! Squirm and fight your way out of the depths of the monsters mouth until the beasts grip loosens. Use the off width cracks to make upwards progress until it is possible to ascend the bulge above and burrow through the copious cornice.
The belay relies on the turf being hard frozen, warthogs essential, plus a No5 wallnut. The route was climbed on sight with no prior inspection
Tim Catterall (5 March 2005)