Northumbrian Climbing Guide

Intro Access Accommodation New Routes Map Archaeology Winter NMC homepage

White House Rocks
Roadside Buttress
In the farm field beyond the path gate there is a buttress by the road. There is a slabby ar? here that may be of interest.
Fence Buttress
The fence bounding the farmed field runs up to a buttress on the skyline. There are what look to be very tasty problems over the fence. The flake on the undercut front of the buttress is a distinctive line and has been done by Bob Smith and Alec Burns, but no grade has been offered.
Skyline Ribs
To the right of Fence Buttress are some blocks with Callerhues style finishes.
1   5b    The twin cracks right of the slabby recess.
2  4 4b    The block at the right hand end.
Arrival Rocks
The first rocks reached from the path gate (below the Skyline Ribs). There are two walls with a rib and dirty area between.
The left hand wall had a heavy overburden of lichen from its forest immersion and an earthy finish, now largely cleaned, although it is worth giving the the topouts a light brush to remove any soil which may have been washed down from above.
3  5 4c    The leftmost thin crack, which starts half way up the wall.
4  5 4c    The rightmost thin crack, which ends half way up the wall. Finish slightly right.
5   5a **   Climbs the wall half way between the right hand of the short thin cracks and the obvious crack. Lovely crimpy stuff.
6  4 4b    The obvious crack at the right hand end.
7  4 4a    The wall and ar? to the right of the crack.
On the right hand of the walls:
8  5 4c    The higher left hand side.
9  4 4b    From the undercut flake towards the right hand side.
10  4 4a    The right hand side.
Overhanging Twins
Above and right of Arrival Rocks are two overhanging buttresses. A couple of obvious unclimbed worthwhile problems on the left hand of these need more effort.
On the left hand of the two buttresses:
11  3 5c    Struggle over the left hand side of nose at the left hand end of the overhang.
12  3+ 6a  (**new**)   This problem takes a sitting start at the broken flake and climbs direct to a mantle that is a little harder than it looks.
On the right hand buttress:
13  5 4c    Thin crack, wall and bulge at the left hand side.
14  5 4c    The thin undercut crack at the extreme right.
On The Buses Buttress
A short but undercut boulder behind the right overhanging twin.
15   5b *   Sitting start at the left hand end. Move up left.
16  5 4c *   Sitting start at the big flake.
17  5 5a *   Sitting start below the RHS of flake, fingers in thin break.
Croc Slot Buttress
A short distance right of On The Buses is a buttress which is undercut on its right and side.
18  5 4b *   Sitting start ? The left hand ar?.
19  5 4c *   Sitting start ? Climb the line of thin flakes.
20  4 4b *   From the boulder - Pull up the undercut nose just right of the short groove.
21  Croc Slot  5b *   On the right hand side, just right of the large boulder ? pull up on two slots in the lip.
22   5c *   Sitting start at RHS between boulders. Up and left to finish as for the previous problem.
23  Mr Shifta 5 6b  (**new**)   A low traverse of the Croc Slot boulder. From a sitting start on the small boulder traverse right on small crimps to just right of the large bulge. From there move with difficulty up to the obvious slots and up over the roof to a difficult mantle
24  Croc Slot Direct 4 6a  (**new**)   Sit start in the scoop at the back of the cave and come straight out to join Croc Slot via a broken sidepull.
Roof Buttress
Further right ? easily identified by the flake in the roof. The flake leads to a desperate looking finish (unclimbed - go get it).
25  Springside Seat 3+ 6a  (**new**)   The left side of the roof via a small flake avoids the main challenge in the roof
26  Reforestation 5+ 6c  (**new**)   The centre of the roof is crossed via the large flake moving left slightly to a desperate slopey top out and a disconcerting mantle.
27  Capstone Rib 5+ 4c *   The rib at the right end is climbed on its left to the bulge, step up, move round right and to the top with interest. (A lovely routelet.)
Little Slab
28  Little Slab 4 3c    The rib at the end of the short slab to the right is pleasant.
Big Buttress
Right again is a big bulging buttress with route-sized objectives.
Pepper Don't Preach reversed. Sitting start at the LH arete of the 'big buttress'. Climb this to a mono from where a left to right traverse can be made of the buttress face using small crimps and slopers. Finish at the flutings.
29  The Preacher (V6 6b) 5 6b  (**new**)   The right side of the left arete from a sit start (no crouching please!). Reach out to a shallow pocket and small edge and then up with difficulty to the ledge. Top out easily.
30  The Teacher 4+ 6b  (**new**)   The centre of the bulging wall from a hanging start on the lip. Make a difficult move to start and finish easily to top out.
31  Pepper Don't Preach 6a 6c  (**new**)   25c. Pepper Don't Preach (V8 6c) R-L traverse of the roof lip from the flutings right of The Teacher across poor slopers to reach the pocket on The Preacher and finish up this.
Big Slab
You guessed - right again is a ?large? slab.
32  4 3a *   Start at an obvious large pocket. Direct to the top with an airy feel.
33  5 4c *   Just right of the bilberry patch on the slab ? straight up. Nice.
34  Starfish 5 5a *   1m right below a small mono ? gain the slab via marine moves. The tall will miss out on the fun.
35   5a    Directly in front of the tree stump, straight up via 2 small pockets
36  5 4c *   At the RHS there is an underccut flake. Climb onto the slab via low ledges. More niceness.
37  3 5c     Starting from good holds at the far right of the undercut flake, straight up.
The right hand end of the slab is very undercut and ends at an overhung recess.
38  3 5c **   From the recess hand traverse the lip left until a high flat(ish) hold and a smear aid a mantel
39  Springworm 4+ 6b  (**new**)   Sit start at the bottom of the steep wall on some edges. Reach left to another edge and then unleash the power to reach a generous break. Don't forget to leave some juice for the tricky mantle!
40  5 5a    The sinuous crack between slab and recess.
41  5 5a    From the flake in the roof of the recess pull up to a rounded finish on rough rock.
Iron Stone Wall
Immediately right are two short walls covered in ironstone.
42  4 4a    The centre of the left hand ironstone wall.
43  4 4a    The centre of the right hand ironstone wall.