Northumbrian Climbing Guide

 
 
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Vindolanda What the symbols
& colours mean
Grid Ref: NY775661   Aspect: W   Routes: 26   Max Length: 14   Average Length: 9 
Altitude: 230 mtrs   Walk in: 20 mins 
 
9
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The original approach should not be used as it was not on Access Land. Instead park at the Lime Kilns GR NY7806 6700 and walk to the public footpath and gate near the junction. Follow the footpath uphill to the ridge and Longstone. Continue past this along the crest of the ridge to drop down to the quarry. (1km from the gate)
 
General:
A Roman quarry some 10 metres high in a hollow on the hillside overlooking Vindolanda fort. It is a very pleasant spot with luxuriant grassy landings and gets the sun from mid afternoon. There are no belays on the top and many of the routes are poorly protected..
Rock:  
Unnamed Sandstone Carboniferous Namurian (Upper Limestone Group)
Quite soft and features tend to be friable.
Access issues:
The landowner does not permit commercial instruction or guiding. The size of the venue and absence of belays make it unsuitable for large groups. Raptors have been reported as nesting here. The landowner does place permitted access restrictions on an annual basis, so check the Natural England access maps and BMC RAD for restrictions. If you appear to be disturbing nesting birds then leave.
Routes/Bouldering:  
Routes:
The guide to this crag is the work and copyright of Stewart Wilson and was published in ´┐ŻNorth Of England Rock Climbs´┐Ż in 1992. Many of the routes are the work of Petes Botterill & Whillance and, according to Steve Blake, some are definitely undergraded. So beware.
Problems:
The quarry has some low level traverses. The routes at the left end can be highballed.
History:
The quarry has been used in the past for pegging and scars and rotten stubs Are visible, particularly along horizontal breaks. There was however no evidence of free climbing. The routes recorded are the work of P. Whillance and D. Armstrong who soloed them after cleaning by abseil. This was in the early part of 1982. Visits to he crag in 1991 by Pete Botterill resulted in some worthwhile additions notably the Concave Wall routes, Teflon Effect, False Start, Chariot Of Fire and Mosaic.