Northumbrian Climbing Guide

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Shaftoe What the symbols
& colours mean
Grid Ref: NZ053822   Aspect: ALL   Routes: 4   Problems: 9   Max Length: 10   Average Length: 7 
Altitude: 213 mtrs   Walk in: 20 mins   Bouldering quality: *** 
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From the A696 Newcastle - Jedburgh road, turn off just after Belsay and follow signs for Bolam and Scots Gap. Follow the main road where it swings left at Bolam Country park and turn left down an unmetalled road at a crossroads, signposted to Shaftoe Crags. Park on grass at the stone wall after the first cattle grid. Alternately, for southern area and the routes, it is easier to approach from the south. The bridleway to the crag is signposted from the A696.
A fantastic bouldering area spread over 1.5 square km of moorland with hundreds of problems of all grades and generally good landings. The southermost escarpment has 3 fine routes, and ther is one route amongst the bouldering, but the rock is very poor on the other areas which might have offered routes.
Ingoe Grit Carboniferous, Namurian (Upper LImestone Group)
Variable, mostly good.
Access issues:
Please respect the 10 mph speed limit at the cottages, the track is not a right of way for vehicles and residents of the cottages have every right to ask the landowner to ban cars. Also, at the farmer's request, parking is by the wall after the 1st cattle grid NOT by the pond.
Two fine lines on the southern escarpment with a few scraps alongside. There is a short hard route on the Turtle boulder and another above the Triple Buttress.
There is enough bouldering here to keep anyone going for weeks.
The crag has been climbed on for many years, notably by John Syrett in the 80's, but nothing was recorded. The production of the bouldering guide sparked a storm of activity when most of the problems in the guide were done, together with the two routes.