Northumbrian Climbing Guide

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Rothley Crags What the symbols
& colours mean
Grid Ref: NZ043887   Aspect: NW   Routes: 23   Problems: 1   Max Length: 30   Average Length: 12 
Altitude: 235 mtrs   Walk in: 10 mins   Route quality: ***   Bouldering quality: *** 
Click here for StreetMap Right of access under CRoW  
Park in a large lay-by at Rothley Crossroads 3km north of Scots Gap. The easiest way to the crag is to walk down the road and cross the wall at a stile. Alternately there may be space in a small lay-by at the southern end of the crag.
The crag lies about 2 kilometres north of Scots Gap. Most of the routes lie upon the large buttress split by a prominent crack which is clearly visible from the road. This is Rothley Crack. The crag is composed of rough and usually sound gritstone which can be lichenous because of the north westerly aspect.
Ingoe Grit Carboniferous, Namurian (Upper LImestone Group)
Hard and course, finger shredding
Access issues:
This crag is now owned by the National Trust, who will be monitoring the usage of the site. Don't park on the verge opposite the main crag, park in one of the laybys. Take great care not to block gates.
Other interesting stuff:
The 'castle' on the hill east of the crag is a 17th century folly commissioned by Sir Walter Blackett of Wallington along with Codger Fort, 1km north of Rothley. Both were built by the parish clerk of Kirkwhelpington Church, John Codling - hence the name 'Codger Fort'
Though the crag was mentioned briefly in an article by Jack Longland in 1928, the first route recorded here was Rothley Crack climbed by him in 1940. This excellent line which still demands respect may well have been the hardest climb in the county at that time. Little else was recorded until a concerted effort in the early 1980's by Martin Doyle, Karl Telfer and friends produced a number of routes culminating in the bold and difficult Master Blaster led by Don Barr, this was followed by Bob Smith and John Earl's ascent of Muscular Eruption and finally Hugh Harris's lead on The Taste of Someone Else.