Northumbrian Climbing Guide

 
 
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East Woodburn (Staniel Heugh) What the symbols
& colours mean
Grid Ref: NY917873   Aspect: SW   Routes: 29   Max Length: 18   Average Length: 10 
Altitude: 250 mtrs   Walk in: 3 mins   Route quality: ** 
 
11
Click here for StreetMap Right of access under CRoW  
Take the minor road north out of East Woodburn and turn right along a gated no through road, signposted to Blakelaw. This road passes under the crag.
 
General:
This is a compact south facing crag with good clean rock and some quality routes. It is on the hillside about 1 km north east of East Woodburn. The crag dries quickly and is climbable at any time of year. It's a great afternoon oe evening out for E1/E2 teams.
Rock:  
Ottercops Sandstones Carboniferous, Dinantian (Lower Limestone Group)
Excellent
Access issues:
A few cars can be parked just past the crag at a wooden post, but take care not to block access onto the moor.
Routes/Bouldering:  
Routes:
There are some very fine routes in the HVS/E2 category with adequate protection.
Problems:
Bouldering is poor
History:
Gordon Thompson and John Grey climbed extensively here in the 1960ís and 1970ís and did most of the obvious lines, including Woodburn Wall, Ridsdale Wall and Capstone Direct. Unaware of this, Paul Linfoot and Andy Winter rediscovered the crag, climbed and renamed many of these routes and added Autobahn and Death Wish. Karl Telfer and John Gilhespy added the Arbitrator and the remaining lines were finished off with Oliver Went A Huntiní and Autoerotic from Mark Savage