Northumbrian Climbing Guide

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The Kyloe Hills comprise the Fell Sandstone ridge running from east of Lowick in the north, down to Chatton in the south. They contain the four most popular crags in the county, and quite a few minor crags as well. The rock is for the most part top quality, giving a good variety of some of the best outcrop climbs in the country. However, the popular crags are showing serious signs of wear and erosion, notably at Bowden Doors and Kyloe Crag. At Bowden in particular, much of the rock is soft and serious wear is taking place on many of the routes.

There is a spattering of generally useless Whinstone crags in the hills, and a few outcrops of it on the coastal plain east of Belford. The only one to have routes, Spindlestone, is included here for historical reasons, although it is completely outclassed in terms of rock, routes and atmosphere. The largest is is an impressive looking outcrop on the scale of Peel Crag half a mile southeast along the escarpment from Kyloe Out, This is unnamed and is shown on the map below. It is guarded by a deadly armoury of brambles and gorse bushes. The place is best seen from the forest track to the south, but probably best reached from the top. Approach with care and moleskin trousers. During the war the woods were swarming with troops, who tarmacked the roads and built things. One of those things was an Auxiliaries Hideout, intended for use by guerillas in the event of a German invasion. It is a rare survivor, as they were all meant to be demolished at the end of the war. The precise location is being kept under wraps as there is a real risk of damage to both the hideout and visitor.

Here's a handy map of the Kyloe In/Out area:

Alphabetical list of crags
Crags shown in red have full guides online, either bouldering, routes or both. The star ratings relate to the best of either type. The colours represent the rocktypes. See here for details.
Back Bowden DoorsBowden DoorsKyloe In (Dues Heugh)
Kyloe Out (Collar Heugh)Raven Crag - KyloeRavens Crag - Bowden
Whin Crag