Northumbrian Climbing Guide

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Henhole History
The Cheviot massif shares with Great Wanney the claim to be the birthplace of climbing in Northumberland. The crags were only really popular however from the end of the Second World War through the fifties into the early sixties. In the first wave of development Basil Butcher and Keith Gregory climbed Zig Zag, Black Adams Corner and the excellent Cannon Hole Direct. Whilst Phillip McGill and Harry Warmington produced Long John, Tombstone and the classic College Grooves. Sadly McGill was killed and Warmington injured shortly afterwards in a rockfall on Dunsdale Crag. Towards the end of the sixties Malcolm Lowerson and (fingery) Jim Patchett virtually exhausted the possibilities for new routes with their series of routes the best of which is Fingery Jim. The latter route is still one of the hardest on the crag. The major remaining line, the "Cannon Hole Superdirect named Zeus the Mighty Bull, fell to Calum Henderson and Lee Clegg at the surprisingly reasonable grade of E2 in 1987.

First Ascent List

1946ishTradLong John, S Phillip McGill, Harry Warmington
1946ishTradZig-Zag, D Basil Butcher, Keith Gregory
1946ishTradCannon Hole Direct, HS Basil Butcher, Keith Gregory
1967ishTradFingery Jim, E1 Jim Patchett
1967ishTradSteerpike, MVS Jim Patchett
1987TradZeus The Mighty Bull, E1 5bCalum Henderson, Lee Clegg
1 September2002TradConclusion Superdirect, E3 5cRichard Pow, Graeme Read
 Both led
1 September2002TradHooleys Horror, HVS 5bGraeme Read, Richard Pow
11 January 2003WinterCool Alligator, IV  Richard Pow, Rick Barnes
4 February 2003WinterJacobs Bladder, III 3Tim Catterall
 Onsight solo
4 February 2003WinterTitus Torquous, IV 5Tim Catterall
 Onsight solo
4 February 2003WinterTurfulator, IV 5Tim Catterall
 Onsight solo
1 April 2009TradBlack Adams Direct, VS 5aSam Wood
 Probably all the climbing on this had been done, but not recorded.