Northumbrian Climbing Guide

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The Quarry
The large bay, obviously quarried. It is the highest section of the crag.
Trad4  Ambulance On Standby 9m E3 6a *New
Good unprotected climbing up the left hand side of the overhung ar? on the east side of the quarry (left of Quaker). Start below the ar? and climb to a ledge. From the ledge step left round the ar? and commit to hard initial moves. Higher up the climbing eases.
Simon Litchfield (29 September2009)
Trad5  ICU 9m HVS 5b *New
Delicate climbing up the right side of the ar?. Start as for Ambulance on Standby. From the ledge ascend the right side of the ar?, with surprisingly delicate moves at towards the top.
Simon Litchfield (20 September2009)
Trad12  Thompsons Rib 7m E1 5b *New
Make a difficult move on the slab and surmount the overhang. Finish up either the wall or the crack.
Steve Nagy, John Dalrymple (Summer 2001)
Trad13  Madge 7m S  New
The crack to the right of Thompsons Rib. A poor route
Steve Madgewick, Steve Nagy (Summer 2001)
White Walls
The next buttress has a quarried section and the rock is very suspect.
Trad14  Legal Aid 9m E3 5c New
A devious route that encompasses the finest climbing on the right hand buttress with some technical bouldery moves. To the right of the broken crack on the left of the buttress is rib with a shallow scoop to its left. Technical moves gain the rib. Two shotmarks are useful for gaining the middle break. Traverse the break right for 1m. Use the remains of a broken flake to reach a number of crimps up and left. Gain the top, keeping a cool head a fair distance above the gear.
Simon Litchfield (21 May 2011)
Trad15  Legality E2 5c New
The true direct start to the upper half of Legal Aid that starts 1m left of Guilty. A fair route, but the start of Legal Aid has the better start.
Simon Litchfield (21 May 2011)
Trad16  Aid and Abet E2 5c New
Start as for Legal Aid but finish directly up (and is spoiled by) the rubble above the middle break.
Simon Litchfield (21 May 2011)
Trad17  Guilty 8m HVS 5a New
The crackline on the right of the quarried section has doubtful rock and dubious protection
Steve Nagy (Summer 2001)